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SDS Tour pics (not mine)


wannab
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I'd have to agree that all of those bucks couldn't possibly be 30 years old (unless they are made of indistructible plaster...). If anyone wants the photos, PM me and I should be able to email them. The only pictures that I didn't get were the pictures of the Stunt and Battle Spec from all sides.

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Nope, that's all there was of the molds. The rest was just the workshop and the proof parts hanging around.

The putty on the back of the domeback section explains the difference seen in current SDS lids and the originals... Apparently a repair job, just like the little bit on one of the ears. It does seem to add up, but... I just don't know.

Can't really believe a word AA says...

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The look of the materials and lack of use on the molds. As you form on molds they take on a different look and these do not have that look at all. They get a natural weathering from heat and debris as they are used, these look fresh as the day they were made. I work in molding and have seen it first hand, maybe there copies and brand new, who knows for sure. but the age of the molds are fairly new, due to the lack of the tell tale signs of use. I do like the placement of vaccum holes, very good thinking on his part. The diameter of the holes tells me he knows how to form, small holes work much better than large ones, to much air volume causes loss of vaccum, small is always good. back on to the look of the molds, in order to get good pulls and good release, car wax is always good to use, for easy release. baby powder on the plastic works great too and all the time, heat and use shows in dirty color patterns, which are not present on his. not trying to be a jerk, its just something i have seen over ten years of molding.

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Great info! I know absolutley nothing about molds, that's why I started this thread to get as little insight on the process. I'm not even sure if molds is the proper term I've also heard the term bucks, would that be more accurate?

BTW, is this one strictly plaster?

Would a likely process be to make a master then somehow make copies for full production?

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They use the term bucks in the UK and in the US i have always heard molds. I dont think it matters much as long as people are on the same page. The AA molds look like to me to made be from From a resin or epoxy with body filler added to fill bad spots. They are not any form of plaster, plaster dont hold up with molds like these, the under cuts are to extreme. In the neck area on the faceplate you can notice the way the base flares out, thats to help over stretching of the faceplate and to ease in removal. the same can be said with the dome, you can notice the flare below the forehead, same reason. ABS is not easy to pull, if over heated it can get a bumpy surface, under heated it wont form rite. you also need tons of vaccum to get it to pull good, over stretch it and thin spots show up, the same can be said for styrene. Though stryene can be heated to its melting point then formed, it may turn out slightly pourus, but sharp as ****. thick styrene is always better than thin, people think styrene helmets are thin and junk, most are because the maker uses to thin of plastic and doesnt know any better. thick is good and sharp and always strong. i have examples, .125 faceplate and .125 dome and .060 ear caps. i hope this helps.. pm me for pics

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There's been discussionss on a nummbr of forums including RFP and Prop Den about this.

I dont think anyone thinks these are the original (1976) moulds, although I'm personally sure these moulds also couldt have pulled SDS's Stunt or Hero helmets either since there are just too many descrepancies (at least with the helmets I have from 2004/5)

IMO therefore these are probably moulds for the battlespec helmet, however I understand why people have no any faith in what AA says any more.

Cheers

Jez

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