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In search of Sterling


Tyranus
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I am looking about for either a demilled or dummy Sterling L2A3 for conversion to a blaster.

If anyone:

1 - has one that has been sitting, collecting dust and getting no work done on it, or

2 - you have seven and losing one wouldn't move you to tears, or

3 - maybe you know someone who has one that's been sitting

I want an authentic ANH E-11,and MR is just NOT doing it for me.

Any help would be great . . . I'm sure I'm not the first to ask, but I figured it couldn't hurt.

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I have a Resin blaster taken from a Real Sterling (The old Galaxy Trading version) which is great, but many of the small. thin pieces make it too fragile to troop with.

I generally have my 1978 Black Kenner Blaster (with folding stock) in my holster and carry a BFG when I troop.

It's a nice showpiece, but I really want a real Sterling that I have converted to an authentic movie prop.

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I struck gold, uhh, I mean Sterling!

I am very excited! I found this deactivated Sterling, and it should be on its way to me within a day or two! I know it will require a fair amount of work and restoration, but I am up to the challenge. Any ideas, tips or hints are appreciated!

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I also have secured an authentic "eagle logo" Hengstler Counter. Now, just to find an authentic scope and the cylinders on top of the magazine.

Does anyone know what REAL-WORLD part the cylinders are?

I would love to try and locate a pair or authentic pieces so the prop is 100% ANH accurate.

Also, does anyone know what is canon for the coiled wire? was it straight wire that was wound tight around something, or was it truly a coiled cord?

For anyone who has a Sterling:

I have a friend who runs a production collision repair facility and paints in a heated downdraft baking booth. In speaking with him, he says he can reproduce the "Parkerized" finish of a new Sterling. I am shooting him a photo of the finish for confirmation, but if this works, and he provides a GREAT finish, I can find out about setting up paintjobs for anyone who might want them. <!-- s:) --><!-- s:) -->

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  • 2 weeks later...

Tony emailed me and also posted under the E-11 Cylinder thread here:

http://www.mepd.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2280

He said it is unknown what the real-world part is.

On another note, My Hengstler Counter was waiting for me in my office chair when I walked in today!! WOO HOO!

It is truly beautiful. I will post up pics asap. I took some already, but have to get them uploaded.

The Sterling also arrived at the local PO this morning. Perhaps it will be delivered to me today? FUN FOR THE WEEKEND!!

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Where did you get your sterling?? i have tried to get my hands on one with not much success.When i did find one,they wanted way to much cash for it..

I actually picked it up from a fellow Legion member for $395 shipped from CA.

I got very lucky.

I had tried to broker a deal between him and a friend with a sandtrooper pack awhile back which fell through. I remembered his name and email and contacted him to see if it was still available, and it was.

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Once you remove the tiny brass screws on both sides, and you slip the plastic housing off, you will see the wheels of numbers exposed. On one side, there is a piece of spring-loaded (at least on mine) white plastic that acts like a brake to keep them incrementing properly.

You can lift this brake piece away from the numbered wheels carefully and roll the dials to whatever number you want...like a combination lock dial.

If you look carefully at the picture above, of the inside mechanism, you can see the white plastic piece I am talking about that you need to gently pull back away from the dials. It should be obvious once you get yours open.

Also, remember to insert a small piece of plastic or wadded up paper or something under the RESET button so it doesn't accidentally reset to 0000000 when hit.

I hope this helps.

Also, depending how you mount it, you should be able to still remove the screws and change it even once mounted.

Good Luck. Let me know how it works out!

My Sterling is in town, but it probably won't delivered until Monday!

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The Sterling package was waiting in my office chair this morning.

I opened it carefully under my desk. It was still pretty early, so not many people were in yet, and I snapped these pics to share:

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Thanks Dave!

I ordered a set of the rigid T-Tracks from Saberfreak (RPF). It may take awhile to get here, but it's on it's way.

I also found a guy that can make METAL castings of an accurate scope if we can't find real ones. Let me know if you are interested. I'm still not sure about the best way to cut the mag down. I'll have to look it over really closely.

I'm glad yours is coming along as well!

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Thanks Dave!

I ordered a set of the rigid T-Tracks from Saberfreak (RPF). It may take awhile to get here, but it's on it's way.

waiting is the hardest part! i'm waiting on some of that too.

I'm still not sure about the best way to cut the mag down. I'll have to look it over really closely.

my thought on that was to cut the length i want, starting where the clip inserts into the gun, and leaving an extra 1/8th or so beyond that. then bend the edges out with some pliers or something, so that the endcap can slide back onto it the way it does now.

then take the spring, cut it down quite a bit, and put the whole thing back together.

the question there is how hard will it be to bend the metal?

to get around that, i'm thinking i might make my first cut right in the middle, so that i have both ends of it to work with. that way, if it's harder than it looks, i can come up with a plan b.

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My thought on that was to cut the length i want, starting where the clip inserts into the gun, and leaving an extra 1/8th or so beyond that. then bend the edges out with some pliers or something, so that the endcap can slide back onto it the way it does now. Then take the spring, cut it down quite a bit, and put the whole thing back together.

After inspecting the way the end cap slides on and off, that was the exact same conclusion I had come to for cutting it down.

Mike seems to have run into a roadblock with the metal being very hard to bend and crimp into the small rails needed for the cap to slide on and off. I think I will try, as he did, and if it doesn't seem to be feasible, will glue it in place.

My thought was to leave a longer bit to bend back, giving me more leverage for the bending. I would then dremel off what isn't needed, and slowly grind it down to a perfect fit. I can always glue if it doesnt work.

The important part is that I want the mag to be removable from the E-11. If I have to use glue on the endcap to achieve that, so be it.

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I removed the grip and trigger assembly. The trigger was able to be pulled just slightly, and the selector switch would not move. Once the grip and trigger assembly was removed, the selector switch works fine, and the trigger squeezes all the way in.

Here are some pics:

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I am thinking if I grind down the tip of this part (circled in red) the trigger and selector may work when reassembled

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If not, I may try to drill out a recess in this area for it to slip into the solid plug in the barrel.

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so it looks like your sterling is also missing the bolt entirely. any thoughts on what you're going to do to fill in the space? in mine, you san see straight through to the magazine...

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i was thinking that i could either:

- buy a bolt from ima-usa.com and try to cut it down to fit in through the mag opening

- cut a piece of PVC pipe to do the same, and put foil tape on it.

i'll probably do the latter, since it will look more like what i think of when i picture a stormtrooper rifle.

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