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SDS Lid Mods??


Sand_storm
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Hi All--

After what seemed like an eternity (even though it was only a few weeks) my SDS Battle Spec arrived today!

I was somewhat dissapointed though as it looks like it needs some work to get it up to scratch. The frown needs quite a bit of trimming, the vent decals need to be removed as they have black lines drawn on, it came without the blue lines on the cheek tubes, and the black moulding between the tusks (which look great!) needs a lot of trimming to remove excess.

I was under the impression that the Battle spec was made like the ANH stunt--with a high brow, but mine is right across the top of the eyes (hero style). It looks like it should be easy enough to trim it so it looks right though.

Any other battle spec owners out there have to do cleanup like this?

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Hi Chris,

You could remove the decals and paint them on for an authentic look,and paint the tubes stripes too I wouldn't go chopping up the brow area just yet.One of the main reasons for a high brow is assembly,so if you can disassemble the helmet and try repositioning the face mask you will get a better looking helmet that way rather than just cuttuing the brow line back higher.Can you show us a pic of your helmet?

Cheers,

-Paul.

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If somebody can give me instructions on posting the pics I'll giv it a go. I did think about trying to re-assemble it, but it looks like I'd need to drill new holes and the old screw hole at the bottom of the ear piece will show if I try that. I'm definitely open to any and all suggestions though.

Also, painting the cheek stripes--do you use a template or just eyeball it?

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If you can take it apart,I would suggest tilting the face forward bringing the chin inwards and making the brow look higher.You should be able to leave the ear caps in the same place on the back piece and the bottom hole would go further inwards and not be seen.You would need to re-drill the face mask though,but all will be hidden by the ear caps anyway.It's just a suggestion,but worth a try if you can take it to bits.

The tube stripes aren't too hard to paint if you have a steady hand.What I do is mark out where I want them on the tubes,with a 15mm gap between the marks.Then I stick some white electrical or duct tape along the marks making the border for the stripes.I mark out the stripes on the white tape making the stripes 3mm and gaps 4mm and make 13 or 14 stripes altogether on each side.Then I use a 2 pence coin and draw around it with a pencil making the stripes.Then carefully fill in the stripes with #15 humbrol midnight blue and once dried,remove the white tape and wipe of any pencil marks and you'll have some nice,free hand tube stripes just like on the original helmets

Again,just suggestions but I think free hand tube stripes look much better than decals

-Paul.

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Before you go tearing into it, I would suggest first seeing if you can pull the brow up a bit by hand. I did it to mine without cutting and got the look I wanted.

If you are a big high brow follower then you will likely have to work on it. Personally, I am not and like a lower brow.

Other than that, I (personally) would not be overly concerned with minor details, as each helmet is a bit different. The original helmets have a range of paint coverage and trim issues. Of course, you are the one who should be happy with it.

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Dear Chris,

I think it's really crappy that SDS put the helmet together so badly for you. I purchased the Trooper Stunt helmet ($800 version) and it came really badly put together. The worst part too - was the left side eye hole (right side if you are wearing the helmet) was cut out really badly - there was a large opening that the green lense material did not lye smoothly against. I couldn't get over it. It bugged me every time I looked at the Helmet. So I wrote them and when back and forth sending them pictures of the problem. They had me send the helmet back and the sent me a better one. I say better then it was but not a perfect helmet. I have a picture below of the eye hole that was cut too large. In the second picture you can see the negative space more - that was the problem when I complained about this was it's hard to see in digital photos.

Thanks,

Jack v.

RedFox@optonline.net

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I'm glad you could see what I'm talking about - it took a while for them to get it. It is real ******** when your spending $800.00! They did make good on it and I sent it back and they replaced it - so I have nothing to complain about. I owned GF armor - that I had built up - they built the helmet up 100 times better and with more care than they did at SDS! GF was trying to make something nice for what you were paying for - not just something thrown together like SDS does.

Thanks,

jack v

RedFox@optonline.net

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You got that right - I learned the hard way!

One thing I'll say about his armor though - I purchased it when it was a lot cheaper than it is now - IT IS NOT ACCURATE TO ANH AT ALL! BUT - for a set of armor it was well put together - a nice snap system + velcro - also, he glued area's closed like the front of leggs and arms - and the velcro closure is in the back of them - better assembly than most kits at a cheaper price (atleast at the time I bought it) He also used a lot of Large stretch Black Elastic - not the small thin strips you see with most kits. The one thing I really liked was the Ab plate and the lower back plate met at your sides - leaving NO opening like GF and AP (unless your extremly skinny like Mike).

Thanks,

jack

RedFox@optonline.net

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What really bugs me about the SDS armour is that AA always builds the shin armour wrong.We know he only has three parts instead of four seperate parts (one doubled) but he always puts the inner right on the outer left when he has a proper outer left.So now all his suit's have the shins on the wrong legs as he fixes the knee plate to what should be the right shin.....just annoying

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