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TE helmet assembly question


TD-4510
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I cant wait to see it Mike! Knowing you it'll be great.

Yeap its a Mac. overclocked to 800 Mhz. I would buy a new one but I keep buying Stormtrooper stuff instead!

Let me know if you have any Mac questions. I've owned more than twelve of them and basically make a living supporting them.

I recently sold my G5 iMac to my girlfriend and a 1GHz Tibook to finance a new 17in. MacBook Pro, on which I'm typing this.

Apple's Intel transition is the best thing they ever did... well, that and OS X.

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Hey Guns, did I get it together right???

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The trapezoids on the cap look like they're positioned correctly enough.

*For my own particular tastes I like my brow trim a little lower however it looks good from here.

**I am certainly relieved to see that only four "teeth" from your "frown" were cut.

***I know you've already asked for assistance from Mike & Seth but again, just look for the "faint" borderlines for each individual ear piece and pencil in those lines for a reference. Remove the excess plastic up to your pencil line. Then take the left (or right) ear piece and position it on the bucket and trim off just enough so that the ear piece "rests snugly" on the plastic. Repeat for the other side. Sand your rough edges and paint.

Marvelous, simply marvelous!

T

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I thought some of the helmets in the picture at AA's studio had the 5'th tooth cut out?So it would be accurate to cut it if you wanted.I have TE2 #3,Thanks Guns.

Hey D2,

Do you have any photos?

T

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Hey Guns,go to starwars helmets.com under real props ANH stormtrooper a little ways down there's a picture of a stack of stormtrooper helmets,you probably seen it before.

Thanks D2,

I will check it out.

T

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OK, so tonight I decided the left side of the cap was a little high, like 1/4 inch. I wanted it even so I drilled out the rivet and lowered the cap down over the faceplate a little. I also got one ear trimmed and placed. that took about 2 hours of fitting before I was happy.

One bad thing that happened tonight was that I split the cap about 3/4 of an inch near the right ear. I was attempting to raise the cap a little over the eyes and heard a "snap". I looked all over the helmet and couldnt find a reason for the sound, but then there it was.... If you look above the newly placed ear on the cap you can see the crack. :( Styrene is a little softer than ABS and gives alot, but rips easier as well. I will epoxy the cracked area from inside and fill and sand the crack on the outside. It will be painted over as well. I dont think It will be noticeable with all the DIRT!

Tomorrow I might try the left ear. Opinions are appreciated. Do you see anything wrong?

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OK, so tonight I decided the left side of the cap was a little high, like 1/4 inch. I wanted it even so I drilled out the rivet and lowered the cap down over the faceplate a little. I also got one ear trimmed and placed. that took about 2 hours of fitting before I was happy.

One bad thing that happened tonight was that I split the cap about 3/4 of an inch near the right ear. I was attempting to raise the cap a little over the eyes and heard a "snap". I looked all over the helmet and couldnt find a reason for the sound, but then there it was.... If you look above the newly placed ear on the cap you can see the crack. :( Styrene is a little softer than ABS and gives alot, but rips easier as well. I will epoxy the cracked area from inside and fill and sand the crack on the outside. It will be painted over as well. I dont think It will be noticeable with all the DIRT!

Tomorrow I might try the left ear. Opinions are appreciated. Do you see anything wrong?

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I'm no expert bro, but the bucket looks pretty good from here! You'll have no problem "hiding" the tear (besides, it adds "character" to your helmet)... (Wow, I just looked at my own TD, I have a similar tear too)

Also, I see you chose to use the rivet on the bottom end of the ear piece instead of securing the bottom of the helmet with it and then hiding the rivet with the ear piece. Don't forget to place the third screw for authenticity.

Ah, I did have to mention the unique venue (gas stove) where you choose to work on your helmet...

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No, I am pretty sure that you are THE expert.

Yeah I will fix that rip.

Now that I look at it I will have to figure something else out regarding the rivet. The problem was that there is nothing to screw the screw into where its marked. If you lift the ear up, behind it is just air. I think there is a solution though. I am going to remove the rivet and make a Styrene bridge between the front and back to screw into behind the ear (inside the helmet). I think a thin strip of styrene ought to do the trick. Then I will just fill the rivet hole and put the correct screw into place

Also, I wanted to say that.....I wish the helmet came assembled. I have been sweating this thing everytime I touch it. Hopefully everything will turn out right.

Something else I just thought of. Is my faceplate too far forward?

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...Also, I wanted to say that.....I wish the helmet came assembled. I have been sweating this thing everytime I touch it. Hopefully everything will turn out right.

Something else I just thought of. Is my faceplate too far forward?

I've been working on #6 for the past two days on and off. I actually prefer it unassembled because, for one...it's easier to glue in the green lens material. And, if you're going for a particular look, you have the freedom to assemble it either with a higher or lower brow, etc.

Aside from the rivet mix up, I think yours looks great!

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Woooooooo!!! Ok so today I finally got to the other ear which went very well. I actually re-aligned the right side and I think it looks alot better. I think the tear was due to too much stress on that side. It looks much better now.

Here's some shots.

Also I came up about three inches short on the rubber trim on the bottom. I tried stretching it a bit and that worked. I needed about a half inch of more so I popped it in the microwave for 30 seconds. BAD IDEA!!! BAD, BAD, BAD, BAD BAAAAAAAAAAAAAAD IDEA!!!! Within twenty seconds or so it caught fire and filled the kitchen with smoke. I didnt notice until I stopped talking to my wife and turned around,....AHHHHHHHHHH!!!

So there's the adventures of Mike for today. i hope this thread serves a purpose for someone. It'll be a good one, on what not to do!!!!

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The 'S' profile is the correct trim for the neck.It looks like you have the SWR149 which is the same as what SDS uses,and is more rounded than what is used on the originals.I prefer the SWR150 which is more squared off and looks more like on the originals.I'll get a pic up soon of the differences so you can make up your own minds

Okay gang,

Time to put on your Beanie & Cecil thinking caps!

Does anyone have a source for this neck trim?

As we all can see, our young TK 4510 "fried" the only piece I gave him and I don't have any left to send him...all my remaining stock is obligated to "other" buckets!

T

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The 'S' profile is the correct trim for the neck.It looks like you have the SWR149 which is the same as what SDS uses,and is more rounded than what is used on the originals.I prefer the SWR150 which is more squared off and looks more like on the originals.I'll get a pic up soon of the differences so you can make up your own minds

Okay gang,

Time to put on your Beanie & Cecil thinking caps!

Does anyone have a source for this neck trim?

As we all can see, our young TK 4510 "fried" the only piece I gave him and I don't have any left to send him...all my remaining stock is obligated to "other" buckets!

T

Thanks Guns!!!

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I hear you should pre-heat it in the microwave BEFORE you paint it!! :wink:

Tony!!!

Cmon bro...if you place the bucket in the mircowave, the metal screws AND rivets will cause sparking and possibly short out the microwave oven!

The best method is to place the bucket in a large pot of boiling water...

T

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YOU GUYS SUCK! Hee Hee!!!

Naw I already tried the boilin' water, it dont work, but the gas stove might!

Actually, I did try a heat gun on my AP......eh...dont do that either!

Man,....BURN and LEARN!!!

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