Robster Posted September 13, 2006 Share Posted September 13, 2006 Thank you guys!!!We owe you guys big time!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckrick Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 Got my box of plastic yesterday. This is going to be my first real build of a prop, except my armor of course, and I've got a few questions. What is the best way to trim these pieces? What type of glue works best? Some of the pieces are cracked and have wrinkles. Is there a way to sand down the wrinkled plastic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SethB6025 Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 Is the wrinkle on a usable part of the pull, or just on the riser? I think Mike culled out any goofed parts proir to shipping, so that might be a spot that gets cut away. If not, sand it down with 150, then wet sand with 300 or more, then paint it or wet sand to a matte finish. For cutting, I use a dremel and razor knife, and sometimes an xacto as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckrick Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Is the wrinkle on a usable part of the pull, or just on the riser? I think Mike culled out any goofed parts proir to shipping, so that might be a spot that gets cut away. If not, sand it down with 150, then wet sand with 300 or more, then paint it or wet sand to a matte finish. For cutting, I use a dremel and razor knife, and sometimes an xacto as well. Most of the wrinkles are on the riser. I'm not very knowledgable about these things so I hope my questions don't get annoying. When using a Dremel to trim, how do you keep the plastic from getting hot enough to melt. What attachment do you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-1536 Posted September 22, 2006 Author Share Posted September 22, 2006 A Dremel cut wheel is essentially melting the plastic, as it rotates at a high enough speed to do so. You may want to practice some. All the pieces are rough trimmed and require final trim and sanding with a Dremel and sandpaper. There should be no serious webbing on any major parts except on areas that get totally cut away. Use the tutorial in this thread to compare what should and shouldn't be cut away. Parts like the exhaust housing and the scoop halves have webbing, but only in the areas that get cut away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robster Posted October 10, 2006 Share Posted October 10, 2006 Thank you Mike, just got my box of goodness and now the fun begins!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-1536 Posted October 20, 2006 Author Share Posted October 20, 2006 BUMP Exhaust Port housing assembly tutorial added. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dirty Trooper Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 Wooooooo, I can't wait for my MH field kit to come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD2802 Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 I thought it was posted somewhere, but what's the best adhesive to attach the SB boxes (front and backs) together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoCKo Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 E 6000! works great for all kinda plastics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-1536 Posted October 23, 2006 Author Share Posted October 23, 2006 I thought it was posted somewhere, but what's the best adhesive to attach the SB boxes (front and backs) together? Devcon or E6000. I've even had limited success with hot glue on some things. For the main trays, I'd use Devcon. E6000 works best when applied to both surfaces that are wide and flat. E6000 works best when it can stick to itself. Using E6000 alone as an epoxy like Devcon won't work because it will do nothing but make a mess. What I've found is the best way to attach the boxes together, is to cut a small, long sliver of plastic maybe about 1/4 inch high and affix it with Devcon to the inside lip of one of the trays. Repeat on all four sides. This way, there is something inside, other than the outer lip for them to hold on to, not to mention cleanly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-4935 Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 i was considering trying to make the main boxes functional as an option by hinging them and having a clip fastener on the front. as long as they aren't too obvious or noticable. if it doesn't work, oodles of glue and electrical tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SethB6025 Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 I did that with my top box, I'll take some shots of how it turned out. There is a little more gap between the halves than if you glued them together, but not by much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dirty Trooper Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 I think I am going to glue mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-1536 Posted October 24, 2006 Author Share Posted October 24, 2006 i was considering trying to make the main boxes functional as an option by hinging them and having a clip fastener on the front. as long as they aren't too obvious or noticable. if it doesn't work, oodles of glue and electrical tape. I hinged the top two trays on my first prototype pack, and it worked great. A bunch of guys saw it at Shoreleave back in July. there will be a small gap, but it's no big deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dirty Trooper Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 Mike how long is the mortar tube mate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-1536 Posted November 5, 2006 Author Share Posted November 5, 2006 Mike how long is the mortar tube mate? 29 inches or 73.66 centimeters. BTW, I'm building a stock pile of them right now...here's a quick pic with the camera in my laptop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dirty Trooper Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 Mike how long is the mortar tube mate? 29 inches or 73.66 centimeters. BTW, I'm building a stock pile of them right now...here's a quick pic with the camera in my laptop. Thanks Mike, I knew I could count on you. One other thing, The end caps you have, are they the right size too? I have been looking at the ref photos and the size of the tube is slightly bigger, ie: my OLD clean trooper end caps from my back stormtrooper canester fits but yours are a little smaller... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-1536 Posted November 5, 2006 Author Share Posted November 5, 2006 well, our end-caps were made from modified 2 inch PVC pipe molds, which comes out to about 2.25 inches. It's easier to use PVC to make the end caps rather than fabricating some new width that would only be maybe 1/2 wider... a dimension that could be debated forever. Rather than continue to debate it, we made end caps and that's that. We also have a boatload of light, plastic mailing tubes that fit these end caps perfectly and that's what I'll be reselling soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
majorhawg Posted November 5, 2006 Share Posted November 5, 2006 Hey guys, Just a lil' sumpn' sumpn'. I don't know if anybody else has tried it yet, but instead of opting for a boyscout pack frame, I went to a local farm supply here in Indiana (Rural King) and bought a piece of about 4' aluminum pipe, and took a bernzomatic to it.( propane torch) I heated each bend, then after I got what I wanted it, cooled it with water, then moved on. I am also opting on not using bolts, as wherever you put your washer it will cause stress, and use really long plastic wire ties. I know there will be stress there too, but at least it will be plastic on plastic. There are only a few things like the exhaust port, that I'm going to bolt. I think I'm going to do this with the mortar tube too. Any feedback as maybe why not too? Thanks guys! Dallas TK6421 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-1536 Posted November 5, 2006 Author Share Posted November 5, 2006 Hey guys, Just a lil' sumpn' sumpn'. I don't know if anybody else has tried it yet, but instead of opting for a boyscout pack frame, I went to a local farm supply here in Indiana (Rural King) and bought a piece of about 4' aluminum pipe, and took a bernzomatic to it.( propane torch) I heated each bend, then after I got what I wanted it, cooled it with water, then moved on. I am also opting on not using bolts, as wherever you put your washer it will cause stress, and use really long plastic wire ties. I know there will be stress there too, but at least it will be plastic on plastic. There are only a few things like the exhaust port, that I'm going to bolt. I think I'm going to do this with the mortar tube too. Any feedback as maybe why not too? Thanks guys! Dallas TK6421 Sounds cool. I think many people here have tried doing the same with the frame with varying levels of success. I do also like the idea of using plastic wire/zip ties. I've been using them over the years for various things, but have relied more on nuts and bolts. Maybe it's time to try something new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SethB6025 Posted November 8, 2006 Share Posted November 8, 2006 On the topic of the tube diameter; I'm sure it will be debated forever, but during R&D I kept coming up with numbers between two and two and a half inches. The better reference was always closer to or dead on to two inches. FWIW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dirty Trooper Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 If you have attached the radio box and filter down how did you get the black tape around the bottom boxes and UNDER the radio box and filter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD-4935 Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 i was thinking that. here's my approach. before attaching anything tape the blue main box halves together with electrical tape, cut the joins either side to seperate again then attach radio box and filter part to the top half, attach bottom half to frame then tape over the join. voila!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dirty Trooper Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 that's the fella... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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