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Welshchris77's pack build


welshchris77
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Been thinking about the way the seed boxes go together, or lack of!.

I thought of adding a 'lip' to one side similar to the bexton boxes.

 

The lip would not stop them from falling off but would stop them slipping apart which also seems to be the problem they had with the screen used packs.

 

I cut some 8mm × 2mm strips of abs and sanded the edges flat, I softened the area with a heatgun where I wanted the bend to be then held the strip to the edge of the box until it set, I then lightly superglued the strip into place, I found it best not to clamp the piece as the edges of the box are not vertical due to the nature of vacuum forming, It was also easier to glue it in sections rather than in one piece adding cleats to the next section before fixing into place, once complete I added a bead of superglue along the inside edge.

 

When this was done I used a sanding block to adjust the lip height to fit the other tray.

 

I had thought of other ways to stabilize and strengthen the trays but this seemed a good way without adding to much weight.

 

Have not decided on what mechanical means to attach the trays and other items to the frame yet but a number of solutions would work for this.

 

I also found there is a high risk of superglueing ones fingers to the trays with this system, best way to release if this happens is to 'twist' not 'pull' away your fingers which can cause injury.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 9/14/2019 at 10:59 AM, welshchris77 said:

a860f5f20a58719e9c5cf3fb62b97be7.jpg
 

I keep coming back to this image and the bottle at the top. If you look the mushroom bottom edge just kisses the top seed tray. Being that the bottle itself is not as wide as the bottom of the mushroom cap, how are people attaching these to their builds are you incorporating a spacer of some kind, bearing in mind that it looks too as though it doesn't line up with the Brexton box either?

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I think you’re right about some kind of spacer between seed trays and bottle which might be slightly angled top and bottom.

Here is what I did, at least for now, on my current build...

C39-DE248-9-F12-4014-B5-CB-7229434-F0-C7

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I keep coming back to this image and the bottle at the top. If you look the mushroom bottom edge just kisses the top seed tray. Being that the bottle itself is not as wide as the bottom of the mushroom cap, how are people attaching these to their builds are you incorporating a spacer of some kind, bearing in mind that it looks too as though it doesn't line up with the Brexton box either?
   

I believe you are right John, I made a graphic to illustrate this by Photoshoping the left side of the upper bottle and mirroring it to the right as we cannot see the right side with it being blocked from view by the exhaust, I have made it slightly translucent and tinted it green for clarity.

I then added the red lines to show the angle at which the bottle sits against the seed trays.

 

To my eyes it looks like the bottom of the bottle is resting against the tray while the top is being pushed out by the mushroom cap, the angle of the brexton box (seen behind the bottle), as you said, supports this idea.

If that makes sense!

 

6c437ed462f516c9f8e7f81651db5b59.jpg

 

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I think this illustrates it brilliantly, you don't think it's this way because it's sitting on one of the exhaust port attachments do you perhaps? But even if it were it still doesn't help with how it would be attached to the tray.

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3 hours ago, Hausi said:

You've got a good eye for the details Chris. I've used rubber washers to get the bottle sit at the right angle on my pack. Two for the upper screw and one for the lower. 

Thanks Urs, rubber washers sound like a great idea, alows some movement too ;)

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3 hours ago, Marv said:

I think this illustrates it brilliantly, you don't think it's this way because it's sitting on one of the exhaust port attachments do you perhaps? But even if it were it still doesn't help with how it would be attached to the tray.

Thanks John.

If I had to guess I wouldn't say it is to do with the exhaust port fixings.

We will probably never know how it was attached to be honest, for all we know it could have had holes drilled and been tie wrapped together, this is a common technique used in films as it is quick, easy and cheap, they only needed the prop to last for the shot, also time is money when making movies.

I know I would do it this way (or something similar) if I had of been working on the film, I probably would have mounted the bottle higher though to sit flush against the tray, by the time the prop had reached location though it could have became loose and slipped into the position we seen it in the picture (all speculation of course).

I think the important thing is to use a connection technique that works for you to achieve the position you want the part to be in relation to the picture.

Also the end purpose you will be using the pack for may determine this, i.e. if you will be using it for display or to troop in.

personally I will probably end up trooping with mine, for comfort I want it as light as possible but on the other hand I have a tendency to 'over-engineer' the props I make as I want them to last the rigors of many troops:blush:

You could use glue I guess, something like E6000 but I wouldn't trust it to hold a large piece like this, better for smaller parts, you could also use nuts, bolts and rivets which would be strong and give the prop a solid 'real world' feel, or, use something like tie wraps, I guess the advantage of tie wraps is they allow the parts to 'flex' somewhat, this could be useful for trooping as it relieves stress on the pack if it get a accidental bang or knock, it would also reduce the chance of the parts breaking and cut down on the weight.

I am not sure which way I will go for yet for putting my parts together, maybe a combination of both, common sense tells me to use something like tie wraps but the engineering part of my brain is saying to use nuts, bolts and rivets.

I haven't tried tie wraps yet by the way, this is Just my thought process on the whole thing :D

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I have to admit I've been thinking along the lines of ties or actually wire as a means of securing it all together, based on the fact that there are holes on the seed trays which lends itself to it, and that wire was obviously used to secure the Sonix too.

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I have to admit I've been thinking along the lines of ties or actually wire as a means of securing it all together, based on the fact that there are holes on the seed trays which lends itself to it, and that wire was obviously used to secure the Sonix too.

Wire for the sonix yes , maybe ties for the trays, I would be tempted to reinforce the holes in the trays with either nylon washers or superglueing custom fabricated Abs washers to increase the wall thickness and thereby strengthening the holes 

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On 10/11/2019 at 10:05 PM, Marv said:

Are they glued?

The spacers aren’t glued, just drilled through the bottle and with the help of a magnet coming from inside out so I can use a washer plus nut combination to fix to my trays.

Since my pack is going to be on display only I am not too worried about a perfectly solid fixation.

Of course  I cannot tighten the screw from inside the bottle... 

 

 

 

Nice work on the illustration! 
Seems to be angled on my pack too...I will incorporate that!   :duim:

B242-E1-DF-A28-A-4-D54-8325-D7-E20819-B3

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  • 2 weeks later...
On your frame when the bottom material strap is in place, is the screw accessible for attaching the mortar tube (think that's the right term) or is it covered?
Not sure on this John as I havent got that far yet, maybe Roger can answer that question?

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Got my radio kit and it looks Great, big thanks to Tony

 

I dont have the signage material to make the box so will be using plasticard instead, i am not sure on a few of the measurements, could anyone help fill in the blanks?

 

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These are the parts I've managed to accumulate, was lucky and picked up a UP85 last week and my two replacement chemical bottles arrived yesterday, they are definitely a better fit.
The Sonix was my first part, otherwise this was going to be a nonstarter.

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On 10/29/2019 at 3:04 PM, welshchris77 said:

With the face plate for the radio should I sand the back to this line?, it looks to be a mould line but want to double check before I do.

c6a908acb5150db876a67f8e4d751cfb.jpg

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That line denotes where the leather surround starts so I guess it depends how you construct the box as to where you trim

If you take the height and width of the plate you have at the line that will give some of the radio dimensions for the box you are trying to construct. The box width is 85mm so I'm guessing +75mm from your line. The leather is 75mm wide, 2mm thick, the stitching is 5mm deep

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7 hours ago, Marv said:

These are the parts I've managed to accumulate, was lucky and picked up a UP85 last week and my two replacement chemical bottles arrived yesterday, they are definitely a better fit.
The Sonix was my first part, otherwise this was going to be a nonstarter.

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Holy s###! 

Where do you live, John? 

I see you are in the UK, should have come by when I was on the island two weeks ago... and stolen all that awesomeness. ;)

Joke aside, this is amazing. I am truly jealous but also happy for you mate. I'm looking forward to seeing this pack come together. 

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On 10/29/2019 at 4:04 PM, welshchris77 said:

With the face plate for the radio should I sand the back to this line?, it looks to be a mould line but want to double check before I do.

c6a908acb5150db876a67f8e4d751cfb.jpg

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Chris, I think Tony's idea with this line or ridge is that it is supposed to slide the face plate in to the box as soon as you've built it, so it stays put. Of course you will also have to attach it in some way, magnets or something similar. 

So I wouldn't recommend sanding that down. 

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Chris the dimensions are they for a sonix? If so let me know what you need and I'll let you know what your after
Thanks John, think I have most of the sizes now, will give you a shout if I have missed anything

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