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Muddy Mimban from Australia


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So I thought I’d do a build thread on the Mimban TK. I’ve started with the bucket, got some FOTK boots on order, and received the plash from mother Russia. I’ve got 6 approved suits already, so I entered this build a little hesitant; I don’t need any more costumes but that little voice in my head... ‘ that bucket with the shield is so nice..’
 
So here goes..
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After about three layers of acrylics; grimy base, sandy mud, greyer over mud..
 
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The bucket is a black series lid, which seems to be the current standard, except Jim’s bucket which also looks great. The shield is an Empire 3D model and print (thanks Nic). The challenge being to get the mud looking right. The best reference under ‘normal’ lights I found is this..

 

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photo credit not mine. From the lucasfilm bucket you can make out some of the composite colours that make up the overall mud effect. The issue I have with really dark weathering is that under most lighting conditions the costume will look dark, very contrasty and the details disappear especially in photographs. I noticed the anovos interpretation is much more monotone grey and lighter overall.

 

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  • 1 month later...

I used layers of colours like I mentioned up in the thread; I applied some by brush and the opted for a spray gun. Each layer I rubbed back with a plastic scourer/scrubber, to reveal highlights and not let it get too dark. The top layer is splattered/flicked light grey with thickener in it.. like dirt and impasto etc in it. Sealed with an acrylic spray.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Gotten to the assembly stage finally... I suppose that’s a positive in all the CV19 drama. The decorative cover strips and resin details are attached following as much R1 reference as possible. It’s hard to replicate the injection moulded look of those R1 TKs but the detail pieces definitely sharpen the feel of the suit. 850 armour have come a long way since the first ST kit I got from them which needed a lot of work. Nice work guys. The ABS plastic is easy to work with to customise shape and size plus it’s really durable, that’s why I went with the 850 kit versus the Flexi fibreglass JT kit.

 

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For the ab and kidney sections I did a corsette type side closure system. The front ab and back kidney are separate, and Velcro side closure hidden near the black diagonal side strips. I prefer the snug wrap around approach to the suspended barrel type thing with the trauma/ backplate as the point of access. On mine the trauma plate will be permanently attached to the back. 850 have included plenty of additional parts to make sure the fit is good.

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The belt is tricky to get right. The notches along the top have to sit into the ab details at a slight backward angle. Given the similarities between the R1 ST and TK belt set up, I got a Rob Kittell belt and will mount the plastic belt sections onto that with the cannister / rear section mounting on the back with velcro just like the ST. Kind of a shame that detail will just all be covered with the plash in the end.

 

I’m using this pic for reference. Photo credit not mine.

 

 

 

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Here’s a few shots showing the ST style belt set-up. The belt attaches with a combination of rivets, Velcro and two bolts from the inside that secure the position of the little tabs against the ab. The front panel of the belt will stay there, it is removable if I need to repair anything.

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The back closure without the rear belt cover and canister.

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And the whole assembly..
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I’ve experimented a bunch with colours, textures and in addition got some cement powder too. I’ll layer up and rub back the acrylic colours as I go and finish with a light spattered cement texture. Like with the helmet I’m being mindful I don’t paint it too dark. I don’t want to loose the detail of the suit under the mud. Plus it looks really average in photos under normal light conditions. I’ll hit the plash and bandolier similarly. First grimey pass done.
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