Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Tunisian DLT 2.0

Recommended Posts

Hello all.


Being inspired by Felices work with real sterling parts for his last bapty build. I’ve been collecting the parts and working on a real parts Tunisian DLT.


So far I’ve got..


Grips from Latvia



Cooling jacket with front and rear sights from canada, and a flashhider from the US.



The next step was the wood. I got the measurements from a plastic empire cast, which when I compared the jacket’s, was extremely close. Thumbs up to them!

To hold the jacket, I used a 3/4” dowel that was squared to fit into the wood layers. Then left a notch to insert the handle.. didn’t have the grips at the time.


The dowel holds the weight very well, but because of an area of the mg that sticks out on the left side.. another notch in the wood. This kept the jacket from spinning, But there was nothing to hold it from pulling away from the body. I really wanted something from the original parts to be functional, so I added a aluminum bar with... another notch.. to work with the sliding pin lock at the base of the jacket. Works great, and very happy with it.



The grips came and the handles were shaped and installed with glue and a two off set screws. The numb on the bottom will not have a hole to match the DLT references we have.


Finished the handle today, but there is tape on it, so I’ll post picks and descriptions of it tomorrow.


There is still plenty of work to be done, and with the 1940 stamped bipod is on its way from Poland, there will definitely be a lot more pics to come.


Here are the two reference pics, and some interesting MG34 info.


Thanks for reading.





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Finished the handle with a leather trigger, used a piece air duct clamp for the guard, and rivets were filled and reshaped to make the bolts.
Covered the aluminum rod with electrical conduit along with some old machine screws.
In the reference pic it looks like there is a 1/3 dowel at the rear end of the handle, so I’ll have to do some re working of that to make it match.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Finished preparing the t-tracks and installed them with some e-6000 and used zip ties to hold them in place while curing.
Here’s a template from braksbuddy.

After looking at the reference pics more I became convinced that there is a dowel at the back of the handle so I did some cutting and got it in place.

Then the bipod arrived and put it all together. Learned a little more about the mg34, and how it works. The bipod can be placed in two places, the front which we are used to seeing but also can be mounted at the rear. To mount, the sights need to be raised up and the flat springs need to be depressed.
There are also spring locks on the legs to lock the bipod in its nested position.1be7b13f67c04e3570df9ba715494981.jpg8a8871605e4f7ca88ffd85e3e148659a.jpg

Its a Beast! Couldn’t be happier with how it turned out. not sure how long I could comfortably troop with it though, but it feels awesome to carry. I’ll weight it soon and give that number..


Thanks for reading and any tips or cool Mg34 facts you have are more than welcome.

Also... if anyone out there knows where to get vintage drawer slides??? That would be amazing, and I’d really appreciate it. Thanks.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

One last measurement.. the charging handle is 2 1/4” long.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Would be cool to have when you can be stationary but probably not fun for a parade. Came out amazing! 

  • Upvote 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this