Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
DStig

Chest plate query

15 posts in this topic

Having looked at the CRL fir both TK and TD I have a question about the screws in the chest plate.

 

Are they REALLY essential? I attained EIB level for my TK and it's my understanding that EIB runs parallel to PO level and as you may have guessed, my chest plate doesn't have the screws in place. Reason being, there's not enough return for them.

 

So my question is, as I want to go for PO (not SWAT) so would it be worth it or not? Seems it'd be a waste of everyone's time to through the whole process only to have this halt my progress. Only option is to get another chest plate which obviously takes time.

 

Opinions greatly appreciated.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

 

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can compare PO more with Centurion over at FISD. Just look at what you need for Lvl2 here and Lvl3 at FISD. The criterias are almost identical.

When I was still shiny (I converted my TK to TD) I thought about aiming for EIB and Cent, but would have to buy another chestplate for Centurion as AM chests are not acceptable.

So the answer to your question would be: Yes, the screws are essential for PO. And yes, you would have to buy a new Chestplate if it isn't possible with yours.

But it's worth the work, believe me!

Cheers!

TD 31037 reporting in!!

1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers bud.

It won't be a problem getting a other chest plate, but would rather wait til I've got it sorted BEFORE applying for PO, rather than getting 99% through only to then wait til it's been sorted.

And yeah, I agree it IS worth the work. EIB certainly was, in the end.

Almost ready for basic clearence, just need the pouches and pauldron, and one part for my pack. Weathering has been done on the kit too.

Cheers for the help mate.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any progress pics to share?

 

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah sure. 

 

Bearing in mind this is my first attempt at something like this so any suggestions or constructive criticism is welcome. 

 

I used RAW UMBER acrylic paint, slightly watered down, and applied with a sponge, then used a damp rag to 'roll' the paint off. I tried to think of where the dirt would naturally build up and where it would be removed. 

 

EWSeK9R.jpg

EnTlijB.jpg

AxvXRVK.jpg

 

I went for a mid/heavy effect and keep an even loon all over. 

 

Thoughts and suggestions or advice greatly received. 

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your Weathering looks good, I really like it!
Only thing I would change (and that's only my personal preference): Give it a wash with a lighter color, a little bit more yellow overall.
I used that one first

062 Earth Vallejo Game Color 17ml https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000PH9ITC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mcwKzbY8MYX78

After that, I applied the heavier Weathering and the darker colors.

But as stated above: That's just my personal preference, it needn't be your way

Cheers and keep up the good work!


TD 31037 reporting in!!

1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the feedback mate. Hopefully going in for UKG clearence next week so should be trooping as a Sandie by end of the month.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well done on your first go at this.

I'm not sure how your local GML will see it, but I would've thought this will be ok for basic approval.

If you are heading for PO, which I hope you do, you may want to tone down some of the darkness aswell as adding a lighter shade to compliment. My personal view is some of your rolling has ended up looking like wiping rather than the effect I think you were going for - if that makes sense.

I found 'dabbing' the paint off with a damp fluffy towel produced a more realistic sand effect (and bearing in mind I took a couple of attempts to get it right, stripping back the weathering completely on both occassions before being happier with it).

it's a journey, but you're well on the way. Good luck with your approval.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks good so far Sir. A yellow undertone would probably work and give it that sun bleached look.

Sent from my VS880PP using Tapatalk

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know what the rules are for TD levels but the screws are not required for TK Centurion. The screws are part of the original strapping system so in my opinion, if they are required for the chest plate then they should be all over the torso to match.

1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I don't know what the rules are for TD levels but the screws are not required for TK Centurion. The screws are part of the original strapping system so in my opinion, if they are required for the chest plate then they should be all over the torso to match.



I agree. That's why I have them everywhere although I don't have the original Strapping system.

Just looks more like the real Deal with screws everywhere!

But they are indeed only required in the chest for PO and SWAT.
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the feedback and advice, gents.

I'll sort out the darker parts of the weathering and soften any 'wiped' areas. I also think lighter tone wash will make it look more organic and natural.

As for the original question, I will certainly be going for PO, but will need another chest plate and make sure there's more of a return to allow for the screws.

Thanks guys.



Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, BenFriday77 said:

But they are indeed only required in the chest for PO and SWAT.

 

 

Another 501st oddity I would have to disagree with but I don't make the rules up. I find it really strange that rivets are required on the left hand side of the abdomen and kidney because they are part of the original strapping, yet it's okay to ignore all the screws in the torso that are also part of the original strapping. Either go original or go snaps.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If your chest overhangs that much on your ab, you have more than enough material to heat up and create a new return edge. 

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
If your chest overhangs that much on your ab, you have more than enough material to heat up and create a new return edge. 

It dies need moving down a tad as well. Might have a look at doing that.

Cheers matey.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0