SDB15

TD in Progress

46 posts in this topic

New test fitting. I'll need help again identifying problems and then I'll put together my next ToDo list.

sTxbjgAhHp2H3an2qlNzlUNEgJPZmemonY0pfaGD

INgiKPvEigcBo9W-nmnsaD2Vfo5h8o5tcQgaSe1S

Here's a comparison with last fitting.

12WIubTsGWztylDvz1n9G2RAahDBDke9Filbdfbn

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am way happier with the pauldron fit and foam padding in the forearms is helping keep them in place. The foam block on the back of the knee is helping with the thighs, but I may need even more padding. I also took the crown pad out of the helmet so it sits lower.

Here's what I see (let me know if I'm headed in the right direction):

Thighs need to come up a bit and need a bit more padding to keep them out of the way of the greaves. (as has been pointed out before, the right thigh may even need some additional trimming)

Forearms may need to come up (less padding) (or should the biceps maybe come down? I like the mobility I have, I can touch the top of the helmet.)

Left lens fog is bad. I bought some fans and have a USB power supply ready to go.

Head mobility is very low (I know, you're shocked right? I thought I would be able to look down a little further.

 

Thanks in advance for the feedback. 

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I actually think your latest shots look really good.  It's coming together really nice.  Remember, so black undersuit is okay, don't move the pieces up so much that they pinch you when you walk.  Just keep in mind that you have to be able to walk and move in this.

1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is noticeable to me: Please round off the corners

da8y7jjx.jpg

1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Right leg still looks like it could use tapering. Hard to tell exactly with the thigh ammo pack in the way. If you have a lot of room around your knee, it needs to be trimmed. Ideally, you want the bottom of your bicep to be just above your elbow and the top of your forearm just below your elbow. When you rest your arm down straight, they should be near touching. As far as leg mobility, it's acceptable to cut out the notches at the rear bottom thigh and top of the rear calf. 

I can't see anything right in front of me if it's below my waist so I usually have to bend over a bit to see small kids. 

1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Based on those comments (thanks again) . . .

 

To Do

Raise thighs (reduce elastic 1/4", but save previous version)

Round off ammo knee

Taper right leg

Add helmet chin strap

Check tension on bicep elastic

 

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think your kit is already coming together nicely:duim:

While working on the kneeammobelt, you should also have a look at the inside riveting, as the rivet should be at the top of the upper corner, just as you have it on the outside. 

To me it also seems like your biceps armor is still a little too large but if it fits you well, that's okay.

One thing that stuck out to me is the vocoder part of your helmet, it should be painted in a way that you can still identify the separate lines, I hope you get what I mean. Have a look at starwarshelmets.com to see pics of the screen-used sandtrooper lids.

Keep up the good work!:salute:

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Hausi said:

I think your kit is already coming together nicely:duim:

While working on the kneeammobelt, you should also have a look at the inside riveting, as the rivet should be at the top of the upper corner, just as you have it on the outside. 

To me it also seems like your biceps armor is still a little too large but if it fits you well, that's okay.

One thing that stuck out to me is the vocoder part of your helmet, it should be painted in a way that you can still identify the separate lines, I hope you get what I mean. Have a look at starwarshelmets.com to see pics of the screen-used sandtrooper lids.

Keep up the good work!:salute:

Thanks! I see what you mean on the vocoder, but I'm not sure how to fix it at this point.

Placing the rivet high made the belt look crooked. Should it have an angle on it?

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You could try to fix the vocoder by painting over the excess areas with white, as soon as you add the dirt/weathering I guess you won't see the difference any longer.

My kneeammobelt is a little crooked too, I have glued it to the front of the thigh which helps to straigthen it a little.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've made those changes, but haven't done another fitting. I also put a hard hat liner in the helmet and did some additional trimming to improve air flow.

It is a new month, so I was able to buy paint. I'd like my weathering to be a combination of the following:

XnBySXD0RPM1hftpmhgmOzQwkz8Yf4YAB2QDBPtw

To me, this is the perfect amount of weathering. It is dirty, but not overpowering or caked on. I bought yellow ocre and burnt umber. Do you think I'll be able to get this effect from those pigments? Or should I look for a tan as well?

1soScwmLIl5F1dOqJ7viX-4uwIHEF8lyVoeH0uFc

I really like what this guy did with the chest plate and pauldron. I'd like to add a couple of these grease spots, but I think I'll keep the grease off the helmet. I'm following the grease tutorial in the weathering board.

I have a mask piece that was damaged in shipping, so I'm going to use it to experiment on.

4NVHAPkQLW7_99VL6_OplyWLXCJzkuUFYjQvZQJC

I started by hitting some of the raised edges with some sandpaper. I also went over the undersides of the eyes. Next, we'll see how the scratches pick up the paint (particularly, my grease spot pass). This isn't how I plan to do my actual helmet, but it'll hopefully give me an idea of how to get the result I want.

pzcSDcbomgzo1CEy16uQkKgg3LvuX55x6k8vBfEJ

 

gbHZ3R7KhJHKXf-SK8c6RLuDmAJAeO627EMnv028

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No able to see your photos. Create an account over at imgur.com and upload photos there. You can set it to private so only the shared image path will get viewed. 

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a link to the album while I troubleshoot: https://goo.gl/photos/kVU2pNBJt6Bx4eAU9

 

*Update: should be fixed now. Sometimes pictures will show up in the editor but the sharing settings aren't updated. I think I have the formula down now.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, so partial success on my first attempt at weathering:

SuFkMIO1gZxBMYdxhYESVRl6SI7wiLjFZpfYErF-

The dark edge on the right side didn't work at all and the sanding on the flat surfaces looked terrible. This poor mask took some serious abuse in the name of experimentation.

xh98tMaVqDqIah3p2b4AgJkd37HWfOKLd0ND_evB

It wasn't all bad. I like the way the sanding under left eye turned out. My sand mix looks great and I'm getting the hang of getting the right consistency of paint (watering down using equal parts paint and water).

4XCWYg05e0JETnTyiYITpmvZNq-LbjxPst_A_Oxl

I like the oil color (50-50 burnt umber and black with just a touch of ochre to lighten it)  far less than the sand (40-60 burnt umber and ochre). I will use the oil mix sparingly and maybe only on the legs. The darkened edge didn't work very well, but the blaster burn is pretty cool. 

 

Things I learned: 

Weathering takes time and patience.

The initial application of the paint does not matter very much, it is the wet paper towel pass that gives the texture.

The paint needs longer to dry than you think before doing your dry paper towel (removal) pass.

Sanding is highly technical and should be used very sparingly.

You should use strokes in one direction only.

Sanding on flat areas does not produce a good effect. The only places that should be sanded are the high exposed edges (see the left eye) and the recessed crevices where you want sand to build up (see the lower edge of the tears). 

Circular sanding motions do not look natural, even when a blaster burn is the intended effect. 

Sanded plastic will only take the first color that is applied. Subsequent passes won't do much.

 

So here is my plan so far:

Use the weathering approach from the left side as the first pass for the entire kit. 

Sand the left raised edge of the center of the chest plate using diagonal strokes from the corner, inward (same process as with the left eye).  Use the dark oil mix on this area.

Add an oil pass to the legs and work up with successively less on upper pieces.

 

Do you see anything I'm missing? Any suggestions?

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good luck with the weathering, it took me several times to get it right. I did a dry brush technique and that seemed to be the easiest. But whatever works for you. Just remember that you want the natural sand look and not too heavy

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, LoveMonkey said:

Good luck with the weathering, it took me several times to get it right. I did a dry brush technique and that seemed to be the easiest. But whatever works for you. Just remember that you want the natural sand look and not too heavy

Thanks for the advice. I will keep it very light for my first pass and post photos before continuing.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, here is the first pass. I think I'm happy with how it all turned out. I may stop here or even go a little lighter on the legs.

fD2sZ1256By8XNhEN-XWedVm2TJOHkioWZi65yWj

WaatszzFVDHYgRHuoLNGPvLA69d5rHjTeF_auCTP

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Off to a good start. Remember that it should be a bit “heavier” on the legs and feet because those areas are closer to the dirt. It should get lighter as you go up towards the helmet

1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I may be close. I'm not quite happy with the shoulder fit and may do some tinkering. I also need to do some work on the helmet interior.

I set my phone to time lapse so I've got a lot of photos: https://goo.gl/photos/kVU2pNBJt6Bx4eAU9

qQM72CauCk-gJj9rymzR-QLS2A6RrqQ2qQNkV2-1

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is so good to see it so close.  Can't wait to see the final product!

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I recommend doing a wash over the armor to get rid of some of the shine. Heavily watered down burnt umber all over, let it partially dry and blot it out with an old t-shirt. 

1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for posting your work on weathering, I'm not yet ready to weather my armor but this is very helpful. 

Asher

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now