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So after some truly exceptional builds over the past few weeks it has motivated to have another go in an attempt to produce a more accurate weapon.

As I don't have access to a 3D printer and have limited tools and even less skill sadly it will never be as good a build as most on here.

However the only way to improve it to keep trying and learning from others so here goes.....

I've started with the top plate and so far come up with this

845181BC-027E-486E-9DE3-B2D58991FEF5_zps

A little touch of colour and I've started to add the first layer of detail..

12F6A9BA-4C5A-4BDA-8D2D-9B2037B352FA_zps

8D04AD62-10C5-47D1-9F8E-EE6AB1D3D383_zps

C49FFF57-70B3-4C63-8FAA-273A270A32E4_zps

I'm always open to any help and or suggestions.

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Thanks mate. Any help or advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated!

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"As I don't have access to a 3D printer and have limited tools and even less skill sadly it will never be as good a build as most on here."

Everyone starts somewhere and your off to a great start, You don't need a 3D printer or fancy tools. Yeh they're nice to have and cut time and weight off the finished product but your way is just as good. You'll be surprised how you look at things differently in shops and bins now, all the time thinking 'what could that use that for?'

What you using for the barrel?

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I do find myself looking at 'off cuts' differently these days!

I've got some 90mm plastic water pipe for the barrel. It's a bit weighty but it's robust enough for the job and as and when I can get the use of a lathe it will be able to have the ribs cut into it without compromising the the structural integrity.

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Ryan, I might be able to help you out here with some of the colours I used in my build.

Apart from primers and wood stain, these are the only things I used ....

xfuuiu.jpg23jqq80.jpg

Are you doing a pipe build or a panda build ?

90mm is way too wide for the barrel, matey. The Lewis is 76mm tapering down to 63mm (3" down to 2.5")

m8gw84.jpg

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Lee you're a star! Thanks mate. I'm doing a pipe build. The gun will come in two parts like yours.

I've just checked and thankfully I've got 76mm and 63mm pipe.

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Ryan, be sure to get yourself one of our ultra realistic stock brush casts before they run out mate,

Nick

5xucqq.jpg

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Won't be this month mate. Too much month and not enough money

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Ryan, I might be able to help you out here with some of the colours I used in my build. Apart from primers and wood stain, these are the only things I used .... xfuuiu.jpg23jqq80.jpg Are you doing a pipe build or a panda build ? 90mm is way too wide for the barrel, matey. The Lewis is 76mm tapering down to 63mm (3" down to 2.5") m8gw84.jpg

Thanks for posting your paint colours. That will help for my next build.

But could you post your reference for the radiator shroud diameters as I think 3" is not quite right?

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3.35" main barrel reducing to 2 7/8"

Sorry for the mix of decimal and fractions.

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After measuring all dimensions of the Lewis, both myself and Nick agreed that 76mm pipe is the best size for a scratch build.

After wrapping to simulate the barrel threads, it would be 79mm.

These are the measurements from the actual Lewis;

Main Barrel OD 80mm.

3" or 76mm Pipe with the 1.5mm wire wrap gives us 79mm OD, which is within reasonable tolerance for a scratch built T21 :)

76mm pipe in the UK is readily available, so this allows Ryan to get as close to the 80mm OD as he can effectively.

2s0izyg.png

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Yeh Berkal I agree here, 3.35" or 85mm just seems a bit too big.

Ryan, definately go for 3" pipe mate as its easy to get hold of in the uk mate.

Nick

5xucqq.jpg

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Agreed that 3" is better than 90mm for a pipe-build. But I remain convinced as to the accuracy of my own dimensions. Since unfortunately you didn't place callipers across the casing 0.35" of an inch is easily lost in a photo. Any chance you could revisit the armoury in the future and settle this debate?

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There is no debate, buddy.

We took the measurements, but didn't get every single photo for you to use.

Good luck with your 3D model, now let's let Ryan get back to his build after advice.

It is his thread after all.

m8gw84.jpg

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Anyway moving on.....

I've started work on the stock tonight

8A6DC12C-5FD2-4900-ADBE-1C6CCB42F6CB_zps

9F0D5EBD-2F1A-4A8F-A97D-F9C9BECCBA1D_zps

It's coming along nicely. All being well I'll start on the main body tomorrow.

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Looks like a good start. Just a note if you're after accuracy: the front part of the stock is squarer (to match the shape of the tang and receiver) than the rear which is more ovalised, if that makes sense.

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Yeah that makes sense. I'm working on the main body so once I fit the stock and the body together I'll re-shape that part so it's more square.

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So spent a few hours in the garden today adding some bevelling to the barrel of the T-21.

2A3DEDBD-6E1D-4FDD-AA1A-FE498241BE08_zps

I've added a coat of primer to it.

987C8BE3-9467-4862-8173-D8BCC0CA8B8B_zps

Hopefully once the tops coats are on all the gaps will be filled in and it will look much better

867C702B-6BE8-4D23-AA62-829001EB3E30_zps

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Interesting technique. Will look forward to seeing it finished.

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So I'm about ready to blow my brains out right about now!

This build is not going how I'd hoped or planned.

I wasn't happy with the tapering on the end of the barrel or the bevelling so I'm trying again.

697F1E51-7275-4D41-92CC-4BA94C216874_zps

But in the interest of soldering on I'm working on connecting the barrel and the body, so I'm trying to replicate the barrel and gas parts to make it as accurate as possible (which for me will be **** near impossible!)

And to help keep the blaster more stable when it's put together.

49754E4D-C3AC-4563-A0E4-38D1E23209B1_zps

75B7C675-8739-4A7D-99B6-04FAEF07AC92_zps

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So tonight I was doing some more on my build and this happened

A5596642-FA6F-43D4-BA6B-67F5A85229CF_zps

Maybe 3D printing is the way forward

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