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LoveMonkey's Pack Build


LoveMonkey
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As I’ve heard many times, your armor is never truly done. That being said, it is now time to start my Sandtrooper backpack build. A Sandy just isn’t complete without one and it really sets the Sandtrooper apart from being just a dirty TK.

I have a few goals in mind for my pack as I start. In order, they are:

1. Cost - This is the biggest issue for me. I’m in the middle of finishing my basement and I’ve had a few unexpected expenses come up. Plus, after spending a bit of money on my armor, I’ve got to keep the cost down for my wife. So I’ll be trying to make this pack look great at the lowest cost possible.
2. Weight - One of the biggest concerns I’ve heard from other troopers who have a pack or have used one in the past is the weight during events and the strain on the shoulders and back. So while attempting to keep the pack cost-efficient, I will also be trying to keep it as light as possible and save weight everywhere possible. We’ll see how that goes.
3. Screen Accuracy - Although this is the last point, I still want my pack to be as screen accurate as possible. Why spend so much time on this if it doesn’t look great? So while I’ll be focusing on cost and weight, I’ll also try to make it accurate.

In the end, it has to be practical for trooping, especially for long periods of time. We’ll see what I come up with.

With all that being said, here is the pack that I will be basing mine on.

Pack%20Guide_zpsar9ludtw.png

I started of course, with the frame. I decided to use Schedule 40 PVC due to the low cost ($2 for 10 feet) and easy availability. It might be heavier that other pipes but I don’t think it will be too much more in the long run. I used the following guide (http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?showtopic=1688) in determining how to make my cuts and bends. I used my wife’s hair dryer to heat the PVC and put the 30 degree bend in. It worked pretty well. Here is the end result.

IMG_3410_zps9eam9uwm.jpg

IMG_3409_zpsxievifkk.jpg

IMG_3408_zpssl7yct1o.jpg

The next piece I began to fabricate was the tool box. I went to Home Depot and found 10x14” thin aluminum signs for about $1.28 each. Made my marks and cut away. Should provide sturdy edges with minimum weight.

IMG_3411_zps09bfboxs.jpg

IMG_3413_zpsmgf3jqcb.jpg

After making my cuts, I wanted to try using some styrofoam as corners. I had this lying around from my son’s Christmas present. I thought for sure this would save me a lot of weight.

IMG_3412_zpsagol5siw.jpg

Applied some E6000 and waited about 20 minutes. When I went back out to the garage and began cleaning up my work area, I tried to move the styrofoam/metal. The styrofoam fell right off and I found that the E6000 had eaten away the styrofoam, leaving a nice, large divot. Who knew styrofoam and E6000 don’t like each other, right?

I’ll be heading to Home Depot to get some small pieces of wood to use for corners instead in the next few days (square dowels is what I’m thinking). Once the corners are glued, I plan on filling the box with insulation foam to give the box some density and strength while also keeping the weight down.

More on this build to come. It will be a much slower build as money is tight for me right now.

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I understand the wife aspect. If it wasn't for tax return I wouldn't have made my trip last weekend to pickup my Dirty Boy pack. I still need to take pictures to share with the group.

If this is the backpack that Rick showed on Facebook Sunday, its a gorgeous pack!

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One of the biggest issues that I still have is locating what I'm going to use for seed trays. Again, cost is something that must come first and some of the seed trays I've found online are just too expensive. Right now I'm considering a single Rubbermaid bin placed against the frame instead of 2. It's cost efficient and readily available but I'm not 100% sure yet.

I got the idea from a fellow TD in my garrison. He sent me pictures of his pack and it is what he did. Looks like this:

20160211_174209_HDR_zpshjmmvsnt.jpg

The seed tray hunt continues...If anyone has suggestions, I would love to hear them.

Make sure you buy your Geo canteen now since it ships from England.

I've got an idea to use instead of the canteen. I'll keep you guessing for the moment :thumbsup:

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One of my other biggest concerns is that lovely blue paint. Colors in my local stores seem to be hit or miss. This is the closest I've found:

CE50EE84-56B0-43B2-AA76-F22892D5FCEF_zps.

What are your thoughts? I thought of also using a grey primer, maybe that would help get this particular paint to the right color.

Also, how many cans of spray paint should I get for the entire pack (black, blue, primer, etc)? I don't want to overbuy if I can help it.

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I've found the Rustoleum 242252 Lake Blue or 249066 Slate Blue are very close. They look blue in indoor light, then become more gray outdoors. Here's the Slate Blue:

rustoleum_lake_blue_4.jpg

Regarding the number of cans to purchase, it depends on how heavy and thick you want to lay on the paint. I would think at least 2 cans of black and blue should work. Three if you really want to go all out :)

Charlie

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I've found the Rustoleum 242252 Lake Blue or 249066 Slate Blue are very close. They look blue in indoor light, then become more gray outdoors. Here's the Slate Blue:

rustoleum_lake_blue_4.jpg

Regarding the number of cans to purchase, it depends on how heavy and thick you want to lay on the paint. I would think at least 2 cans of black and blue should work. Three if you really want to go all out :)

Charlie

Where did you find these? I checked my local Lowes, Home Depot, and Walmart all with no luck. Next stop will be Michaels or JoAnns.

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Update time - Work has been pretty busy lately and I’m in the middle of finishing my basement, so time is hard to come by for this. This morning I was able to spend about 20 minutes getting the shotgun shells done, which is actually fairly easy.

For the shells, I used ¾” PEX pipe that I had leftover in my garage. It’s about the same size and thickness of ½” schedule 40 PVC, but a lot less weight. If I remember right, the PEX pipe was like $1.50 at Home Depot. Anyways, I used a hand saw to cut 5 pieces in 2.75” segments. I learned that I don’t cut very straight when using a hand saw, but I guess that gives it some extra uniqueness. After cutting and sanding the pieces, I glued them onto a leftover strip of ABS plastic from where I trimmed on my kit. Once the E6000 dries, it just needs to be painted and attached to the seed trays.

IMG_0577_zps8vbfgecc.jpg

Also, I was able to order 7 Tupperware pudding cups of eBay for about $10 with shipping included. I’m going to give 2 to another garrison member for his pack build. I just need to get cut off the part on top that attaches to the cup base and it will be ready for paint.

IMG_0576_zpszakwhmej.jpg

More to come soon. Paint and seed trays are still being sought.

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So I took a stroll to the local Home Depot today in search of that illustrious blue paint. I didn't have a lot of time as it was on a break at work, but here are three different paint samples I got. I wanted to see what you guys thought.

I have found the recommended spray paint online, but I thought I'd try this first to see if any money could be saved and to see if I could find a color that would be easier to get in the future if needed.

I'm thinking a quart of paint, does that seem like it should be enough?

34FDF40B-2B5C-4A8E-84CE-BF0683588576_zps

5EA45883-4BBB-4664-BF5D-62497EAE83C6_zps

CC247381-6B3C-48F3-9602-15FFCED4E4C9_zps

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Not sure if this is what you're doing, but there are paint stores that can put any color you want into a spray can. I used to work at Kwal Paints, and man did we do a lot of that. If I couldn't find the right color already in a can, that's what I was going to do.

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Ok, small update. I finally found a few pieces that have been eluding me.

The blue paint - I decided that I was making it too complicated trying to save a few bucks. I decided to go ahead and order 2 cans from eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rust-Oleum-249066-Painters-Touch-Multi-Purpose-Spray-Paint-Sat-/111813223938?hash=item1a08966602:g:oCUAAOSwlaxWNzMg). This way the color will be right and now I can stop looking.

The other, and far more difficult, was the seed trays. I looked around at Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart, Petsmart, and a number of other stores for trays that would be similar to seed trays that would work or other possible options. No luck to be had. I looked at this site (http://parkseed.com/perma-nest-plant-trays-12-x-8-58-x-2-12-inch/p/96373/) after reading through Scootch's build. I don't know if I read something wrong when I initially looked but one set contains 3 trays. So I ordered 2 and now I have 6 trays. Couldn't beat the price.

So now I have those 2 things coming. da_prop_maker is printing me the radio faceplate, tupperware lid, and cistern. So I have most of the parts I need. I'm hoping to get some work done tomorrow while my wife is repainting some furniture for our basement. I'll post updates and pictures as soon as I can.

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Small update here. I’ve been working on getting the tool box made. I used 10x14 aluminum signs from Home Depot ($1.28 a piece if I remember right) and cut them to measurements found in various threads. I then found a package of cedar wood shims at Home Depot for $1.50. I cut little squares out of the shim pieces and used those for the corners of the box, gluing the aluminum to them. The cedar is super lightweight, so I was excited for finding it in the aisle I walked down by chance.

464C6A7F-E30C-4420-982C-34F8EB3DD6E4_zps

AD2EB73D-CD42-413F-9025-151928D6FB00_zps

Now that the glue is about to dry (will be done tomorrow afternoon), the next step is going to be two parts. One will be filling the box with insulation foam to give it some strength and rigidity but with low weight. Make it a bit more durable.

Second will be strengthening the edges. As you can see in the pictures, there are gaps on the edges, mostly in the middle, where there was no wood to be glued to. The edges are also not super clean and straight due to the gluing and my lack of a steady hand during the cutting process.

I am thinking of using some DAP spackling paste that I have lying around the house from other projects to reinforce the areas, then sand and smooth for a nice edge and prep for paint. I’m testing this idea out on some scrap aluminum pieces, so I’ll see how it goes. If anyone else has any other ideas to reinforce the edges, I’d love to hear them.

More progress to come soon. I’m going to make another box just like this to mount the radio faceplate to once da_prop_maker has it finalized and 3D printed. I’m going to wait to make sure I get the exact measurements right for the radio faceplate once I have it in my hands.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Updates to come soon, I promise. I've had a very intense 2-week work training so this has been pushed to the back burner a bit. Progress this week, I hope. I did have 2 questions for everyone.

1. What are you guys using to mount the different pieces to the trays? I want to fill the tool box, etc. with insulation foam to give it some strength and I can't figure out the best way to mount all these pieces. I've thought about zip ties but I'm undecided.

2. How do you guys get the nice, rounded edges on your exhaust port box, tool box, etc? I've tried making my own from scratch and I get very ridged, box edges. I'd like to round them down. Is it just bondo or something else like spackling paste?

Thanks for the help.

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1. Check out Terry's (Pandatroopers) tutorial. It's in the field pack/ pinned section. That's the approach most of us have used.

2. You can use 3mm MDF wood and just sand down the edges. Quick and cheap with great results. The only 'con' is that it's a little heavier than your regular project enclosure or tupperware box. For the exhaust port you can use a piece of wood cut it roughly into shape an use a rasp to round the edges.

Cheers

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I'm working on my pack now. I am going to use the Radio Shack project enclosure for the exhaust port.

https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-project-enclosure-6x3x2?variant=5717250245

Dimensions are 6"x3"x2" its 5 bucks.

I have some lexan (little thicker than ABS) that I am using underneath for the mounting brackets and triangles. I cut them into 2 strips, and then cut 8 x 45 degree triangles.

Also drilled out about a 1 inch circle in the top to fit my 3/4" PVC pipe with a coupling on top. For the ribbed hose, I'm using this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-1-4-in-Steel-CSST-Coated-Protective-Conduit-up-to-3-4-in-CSST-Tubing-11-12512/203073935?keyword=811000111258

It is only 3 bucks, has metal conduit inside, so it is difficult to cut through. I've found that you can just slice off a piece of the yellow plastic hose with a utility knife, then just screw it off in a twisting motion (not using the metal underneath). The hose is too big for a 3/4" PVC pipe, but if you slice your piece right up the middle, you can size it to your pipe and just glue down the overage with plastic epoxy or E6000. I didn't want to buy a giant piece of hose for 2 inches of material. This did the job with some easy modification.

Here's a pic of all the stuff:
IMG_4196-e1459703419640.jpg

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Perfect! Ive been looking for something to make the ribbed look I had a few ideas but this is PERFECT since I don't need to buy 10' of something I only need a little of lol

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