Making a DLT-19 rear sight

[Strider]

If you have a Doopydoos or similar DLT-19 you frequently have the problem of a missing rear sight, at least when you strive for that extra accuracy. Since I couldn't find anybody who casts them I thought I give at a shot myself.

This is the first thing I've ever build and it's the first thing I ever weathered so obviously I had a great learning curve doing it and I'm happy to share some of these lessons learned. So be aware that this is by no means a "best practice" tutorial or anything near but simply one not too complicated way of making a DLT-19 rear sight.

First thing are the dimensions. There are good technical drawings out there (like this one: http://www.the-blueprints.com/de/blueprints/weapons/machine-guns/41740/view/mg34_technical_drawing/) but they frequently lack the measurements. Since wikipedia states, that a MG 34 is 1225mm long I estimated the approximate dimensions of the rear sight and came up with this template: Rear_Sight_measurements.pdf

I cut the main body of the rear sight out and drew around the outline on a 3mm balsa wood.

Then I cut out 6 pieces (á 3mm width) with one of them being the middle part used to slide the sight up and down.

After that I glued the 6 pieces together (I like using zap-a-gap because you don't have to spend hours or even minutes to wait until it's fixed) and filed in the markings. Learning: Do use a ruler

Then I did the same thing with the adjustable sight (only that I didn't make it adjustable) and cut out 5 little pieces to go on each side.

[Strider]

Since I just learned that you have a max. of 500kb of picture per post I use photobucket to link the next ones:

Glued 2 pieces of 3mm covers on top while filing the sides of the upper one:

Made 2 smaller pieces and used a file to give them that "ripped" look:

Gave it a coat:

And finally black Hamerite paint and a little dry brush technique for the weathering:

Lessons learned:

- Be more through on the filing by using a ruler as well as on the sides to make them really even (or use some bondo)

- Drawing the numbers with a fine brush didn't work too well. Maybe I'll try a marker or create a template next time

- Weathering: Well, I guess you just live and learn...

Hope that helps!

[nick.black]

Hey nice work buddy. Have you thought about a letter/number punch set for the numbers. It'd impress easily into balsa

[Strider]

Thanks, bro. That's a good idea; it's a little tricky as the numbers become smaller as they go down but I guess I could use 3mm numbers for the first 3 rows. I'll have to get the punch numbers first but I'll try it out

[P3laton3]

Nice one Strider and thanks for the heads up on this is issue with the DDs ones.
I though mine was almost done and now....new challenge accepted. :thumbsup:

I am going to try with the Foamy PVC that gave me very nice results on the radios and few other bits, the wood cracks and splits too easily and I don't have a very light hand

[Strider]

I've never worked with the foamy PVC but it sounds like a good alternative. Does it rub or break off if you work with it or is it stable?

Another option could be modelling clay (eg, FIMO) that becomes hard when heated up in an oven.

Let me (us) know how it goes. Maybe we can figure out together what the best and efficient way is to make the rear sight

[P3laton3]

Believe me the Foamy PVC is lightweight and sturdy. Is the way to go. I was actually thinking to model it in 3D but way too long as process. Still need to figure out how engrave the numbers on it and make it foldable.