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Found 7 results

  1. Given the relatively recent addition of the excellent reference photos provided by Machine's post (found here), I decided to draft a series of technical drawings of the Lewis gun and its various components to be used as printable to-scale plans for those wishing to begin a T-21 build. These were drawn with the most accurate measurements I could gather from the reference photos, done with as little estimating as possible. I did my best to provide dimensions where I felt they might be necessary, while other drawings are meant to be traced directly to their respective material. I will provide images of the sheets here for the purpose of review and hopefully as many suggestions and critiques as I can get to make the drawings as useful as possible. For those of you with drafting experience who would like to have the raw CAD file, feel free to PM me! And for those who feel the current drawings are at least worth a try, I have the 14-page PDF document ready upon request! I myself will begin my first T-21 build tomorrow using the current drawings, progress of which I will be sure to link to this thread. Thank you in advance to any and all help you excellent troopers can provide!
  2. Hello all, time is right for me to post here. This will be my 2nd month coming into assembling this T21. The biggest handicap for me in doing any DIYs has always been location, location, location. I'm in this part of the world where things are not readily available. Trust me, we don't have screws, bolts, & nuts like on the outside. Thanks to template from @pandatrooper, greeblies & guidance from @spOOL68 (please don't hate me; but i still have lots of questions for you). First off the materials: I have the electronics from this EE-3. I believe has a decent sound for a T-21 blaster. Slings: 1944 Lee Enfield repro (need 2 of them) & Lee Enfield no.4 butt sling swivel. This is the proper way of attaching the two together. My base wood colored it Java: My base pipes: (ugly i know) coated it silver: Pre-installation, important stage here as i planned on installing the electronics in. Had to extend the cables as what came are definitely too short. Wood will need to be chiseled to properly embed the cables. Now the greeblies (awesome from Roger's btw): Just today, had to make the stock brush "playable". That's all i have for now, this is obviously a WIP. What i am most happy about so far: Thanks for watching. Appreciate any feedbacks.
  3. Fellow Sandies, After many hours spent in Home Depot and my garage, I have finally completed my BFG. I followed the basic construction using PandaTrooper’s tutorial and template, however, I did make a few minor modifications to personalize mine. Because PandaTrooper’s tutorial was so good, I will not repeat the steps, instead, I will focus on the minor changes I made to personalize my T-21. I wasn't going for screen accuracy, just wanted to personalize it a bit. The first place I deviated from the plans was with the grips. 1/4″ wood was used for the receiver parts and the stock. I tried cutting the grips using the 1/4″ wood, but they felt a bit “chunky” when I test fit them on the handle. I went to Michael’s craft store and picked up some 1/8″ wood. While the 1/4″ stock was being glued to the body, I worked on the cooling fins. Didn’t do anything different here, just providing the link for the cooling fins template, as it is located in a different part of PandaTrooper’s tutorial on MEPD.net I also changed out a few of the screws. I really liked PandaTrooper’s idea of using a Chicago bolt for the rear flip-up sight, so I put another Chicago bolt at the bottom of the blaster (as seen in the image below). Instead of using pop rivets at the bottom, I elected to use very short Metric Button Head Cap screws. They are only used for decoration, I drilled out holes, put some E6000 adhesive in the hole, and then inserted the screws. Like PandaTrooper, I used 2 Pan Head Square Drive screws at the top of the receiver, for looks, and for securing the receiver. Test fit of the barrel: PandaTrooper painted his stock & grips with brown paint, applied some scratches, and some weathering. I wanted a natural wood grain finish, so I masked off the stock before I spray painted the main body flat black. After the spray dried, I applied some Varathane wood stain in “American Walnut” to the stock and grips. The directions on the stain can were spot on. I applied the stain with a foam brush, waited about 2 1/2 minutes, then wiped it off with a paper towel. It left a deep, rich color, I only needed one coat. After waiting about 2 hours, I applied the first coat of satin polyurethane. I followed up with a 2nd coat a few hours later. I let all of that dry for 24 hours. Came back to the garage, lightly sanded the stock and grips with 800 grit sandpaper, and then applied the last coat of satin polyurethane. For finishing the blaster, I tried a faux gunmetal technique that I was reading about on therpf.com. For the areas that I wanted to simulate gunmetal, I gently went over the body with very fine 0000 steel wool. This apparently creates small crevices while minimizing damage to the finish. I then generously brushed on powdered graphite, and kept rubbing it in with the brush. To seal it, I applied some Krylon clear in a satin finish. I am very pleased with the results. In a nutshell, the body and barrel were primed with flat gray spray paint (not shown), followed by 2 coats of flat black. After the black had ample time to cure, I rubbed it down with 0000 steel wool. Powdered graphite was then brushed on and rubbed in. The graphite was sealed with clear satin. To make those edges pop, I dry-brushed Testors silver enamel with a stiff bristled brush. Wrapping things up, for the ribbing, I used 2 different types of vinyl tubing. For the outside, I used 1/2″ outer diameter (with 3/8″ inner diameter). To join the 2 ends of a ring, I cut about 2″ of 3/8″ outer diameter (1/4″ inner diameter) to use as an insert/connector. I needed about 14 feet of the 1/2″ OD tubing. A single role of the 3/8″ OD tubing was more than enough. Not my idea, another tidbit I picked up on a forum. Once the rings were cut, I roughed them up a little with 400 grit sandpaper. I then applied Dupli-color vinyl spray paint in black. I tried some Plasti-Dip spray as a test on one of the rings since I had some left over from coating the inside of my Sandtrooper bucket. Even with the surface roughed up on the vinyl tubing, the Plasti-Dip would not bite at all. The Dupli-color was awesome, it cured rather quickly, and seems to have a strong finish. The Dupli-color was available at my local auto-parts store. For the sling, I picked up 2 Lee Einfeld canvas slings to join together, and a sling swivel that could take a 1 1/4″ sling (the width of the Einfeld). I found both of these items on eBay. I’ve seen other T-21 builds, and I really like the look of the cabling that is wrapped around the barrel. I used some old coaxial cable that I had sitting around, stripped it, and used the innards to wrap around the barrel. The cable was dusted with black spray paint. I drilled out 2 holes in the barrel, placed the ends of the cable in the holes, and secured the remaining cable with 1/4″ cable clamps and some oval phillips machine screws. Can’t wait to go trooping with this bad boy! As you can see, I did not put any sights on the barrel. I want to troop with this blaster, and I was afraid those parts would snap off. The only "sight" that I used on the barrel was a hose clamp, dusted with black spray paint. A big Empire salute to PandaTrooper for sharing his T-21 plans and building instructions!
  4. Of late there has been a lot of interest in the T21 blaster, not least because if its recent appearance in the new Rogue One teaser trailer and for my part, for the past several weeks, if not months, I have been trying to design and build the most realistic and detailed T-21 blaster possible. Using my background as an architect and designer the end goal has been to arrive at the very next level in accuracy for our Sand Troopers. I have previously designed 3D parts for friends including a Dredd Lawgiver. Based on reference photos (thanks alsol to Machine for his excellent collection), blueprints, technical manuals, as well direct measurements from a real Lewis I have painstakingly recreated the details of the gun as a 3D CAD model from which a kit of prototype parts has been 3D printed from PLA plastic. This has not been a short process. This has been a tale of trial and error; of research and diligence, designing and redesigning each individual part sometimes several times in order to best represent the real deal with as few compromises as possible made whilst at the same time designing to facilitate the limitations of the materials and the 3D printing technology. And we are still not quite there I think. Each part is, I would like to say, currently around 95% accurate in terms of dimensions and details and an ongoing work in progress likely taking a few iterations to get it to the 99% level of accuracy I would like it to be. This has been a project with my buddy Johno who has been carrying out the initial base build of the mkI T21 Lewis and I thought I would share our progress to date for your enjoyment. Here we go: It starts with around 40 individual component parts… Detail of receiver section… Dry fit of the main sections: receiver and barrel built around 20mm aluminium tubing… Stock mkII: wood grain detail and prototype wood filament print… Blaster fitted, assembled, bonded, and primed… Some detail of top of receiver... Various other details… The overall weight of the blaster is a svelte and very troopable 2kg. The next build version will feature a smoother barrel without the visible faceting, and will be able to be disassembled for travel/storage. We are also developing a version which will feature a working bolt and cartridge feed action. I want to again thank Johno for assisting with the build. We have come a long way in a short time. ​More as it progresses...
  5. So I'm looking to finish up my T-21 and one of the things I need is the straps. Someone here recommended these: http://www.ima-usa.com/original-post-wwii-dated-british-enfield-web-khaki-sling-with-brass-fittings.html?p=2 Yet they're covered in writing. Is there any way to remove it?
  6. I've searched these forums and Google but have a quick question on a T-21 build. I'm in the final stretch on a Pandatrooper T-21 and I need to start adding bondo to the side between the PVC pipe with the ejector port and the styrene parts of the receiver. I've used some screws and e6000 to bind the PCV pipe to the wood body and e6000 for hold the Styrene to the wood. Do I need to sand and remove the e6000 that sits in this gap between these parts before I add bondo? Will the bondo stick to the e6000 residue that is on the wood parts of the body? Thanks
  7. Per suggestion from the 501st, I’ve copied this question here to the MEPD forums. I've started a T-21 build with long-term aspirations of getting my first suit, a TD. But the T-21 is easier to do short term and doesn't require as many funds For those interested, my album is here. I have 2 questions: 1) Looking at Lewis gun reference pictures, I know there were versions both with and without the "cleaning kit" tube in the butt stock. Is there a generally accepted opinion on whether or not this was present in ANH? I've tried staring at screen caps and paused video but I can't make it out and haven't seen any photoshopped pics definitely showing if it's present or not. I did check the CRL and it's not called out as being required for any level of certification. 2) Can anyone provide a (preferably US) link to where they purchased their barrel ribs? I know a lot of people have used corrugated drain pipe and I saw a suggestion of using D-form weather stripping. I had tried purchasing some corrugated pipe from one big-box supply store and it didn't look quite right so I returned it. I'd welcome any suggestions
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