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11b30b4 last won the day on March 28 2020

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    Naast Clan Mandalorian Mercs

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  1. Yoshix, you may have missed it but I stopped working on the 850AW kit and sold it to a friend. He will be finishing it on FISD I believe but the Covid 19 has put a stop to all work on it for the time being. Once he starts it, I will post a link to the build here for you guys.
  2. Darthcue, since the Jimmy kit shins are clam shell, Plainsrunner put elastic inside connecting the two halves so they swing freely open on the front seam and can spread on the back seam. Plainsrunner, when you have a moment, can you shoot some pics of the shins inside to show this?
  3. I recommend going with the vac tube, the wight it the main reason. That conduit is extremely heavy at the end of the gun. Also, if you did not see my latest update, do not use Sentra as the base, mine snapped at the stock when I snagged it on a door frame. I ended up using a 3/4" thick white pine board and planned it down to 1/2" thick. Turned out great, weight is less than the plywood or MDF and much stronger than the sentra. If you do make it DragonCon, donet try to drive everyday, get a hotel room even if its up in midtown. You can uber and the late night stuff is what makes DragonCon so fun. Hope to see you there and good luck on the build.
  4. I would not say Christine convinced me to build the ST, but here working on her kit did motivate me to make the decision and get the build going. When I first saw the teasers for Rogue One and they pictured a Shoretrooper, I wanted to make one. I decided to make the Rogue One TK since I have loved the Stormtrooper look since ANH. This Sandtrooper kit would really be just more of the same so I elected to move to the ST. I believe the SF models are still very arcuate and most likely more accurate than any vacuum formed or fiberglass armor kit available. I have both SF and Mr. Paul’s files; however, I have not had the opportunity to compare them. I do know that Paul’s files incorporate all the strapping mounts and is one of the main reasons they are considered the most accurate files available. After all the hard work Paul and the team put into research and making the files, I am happy to make the $200.00 donation to KidsAid and receive the files in return. I admire that Paul and his group are making no profit from the files. I also admire SF fore giving his files away for free. Honestly, if I had made the files, I would give them away for free as well, just like everything I design and offer on my thingiverse page. Anyhoo, Caleb are coming down for DrgaonCon this year? Perhaps you can nudge the guys in the SC Garrison to Bring the F#$%ing tank to DragonCon. I have had no luck and I am dying to get some pics of my ROTK with the tank.
  5. So good news bad news. Bad news, I will not be finishing the 850 Aw kit. I sold it to a friend who will be building a TK on whitearmor. Once he starts his build, I will leave a link here for anyone who want to follow it. So the good news is that the kit will still be built and as we work on it I will make any 3D model parts freely available to anyone on my thingiverse page. I will be starting the **** of 3D printing Mr. Paul's Shoretrooper kit and will be logging that over on pathfinders.
  6. So Sentra was not the best idea I have ever had. The T-21 snapped where the stock meets the receiver when I snagged it going through a door. Since plywood was too heavy and the Sentra was too weak, I have rebuilt the rifle again using all the previous parts but this time I used a 3/4" white pine board that I planed down to 1/2" thick and seems to be holding up great and the weight is fine.
  7. Hausi, thanks again for the comments. REESE'S Peanut Butter Cups are actually my favorite candy; however, I do not snack very often. As for treats in Germany, The cookies from Nuremberg are delicious but The treat I miss most from Germany is Dampfnudels with chocolate from Cafe Dampfnudelbaeck in Nuremberg. Back on topic, the stock is white pine, as are the grips. I made the stock for the previous version of the ROT-21 and re-purposed it here. The stock consists of two halves roughly ¾” thick and 8” x 18” once I have the outside rough shape, I hollowed out the interior with a router then glued the two halves together. The stain is Minwax Ebony with a satin clear coat on top. As for the strap, from the best images I could find I determined the width of the sling webbing to be 1.25” and the webbing to be black nylon webbing (most likely Mil Spec: MIL-W-4088 Type 10, Class 1A). At one time I made tactical gear and I am familiar with webbings and types. Some things to note from my research: In this screen grab you can see where and how the forward end of the sling is attached (Yellow Circle) and it looks to be an AK-47 sling mount screwed to the top of the barrel shroud just behind the front sight. Note the round (looks to be an areal gunner sight) sight just forward of the feed tray and is in the dead space of the barrel shroud between the two barrel shroud rings (Red Circle). Also note the rubber wrapped tubbing on the barrel shroud goes past and covers the middle barrel shroud ring (between the Red Circle and Yellow Circle). Lastly, note the rear sling mount appears to be on the side of the stock (Light Green Circle) and is most likely in the spot as the bras ID disk seen on some Lewis Guns. An assumption can be made that they are using an Uncle Mikes style sling mount and quick detach since this has been used on several weapons from Rogue One. I hope this build helps others out in making RO T-21s and feel free to ask question and/or point out anything I missed.
  8. Hausi, thank you for the comments and suggestions. German Garrison, man I really miss Germany. I lived in Illesheim for three years (1988-1991). I loved living in Germany, got to do cool stuff, make a lot of amazing friends, Watched the Wall fall, Watched Germany win the 1990 World Cup. Some of the best years of my life. I digress, I think the dry brush will look more natural in these pics. I did the black wash over the dry brush and it mutes the silver. I am inclined to agree with you about using bondo between the transition and the two parts of the shroud. The line between the transition should not be as defined; how that change will need to wait a bit before I can address it. For anyone interested the total estimated weight of the T-21 is 4.5 pounds. Thanks for the interest, Now I need to get back to the armor build.
  9. Update 12/5/2019 I assembled the radiator, flash hider, back plate, and end cap ring on the tapered part of the barrel shroud. Next, I installed the tapered barrel shroud to the transition then I dry-brushed silver on all the parts and attached the Feed operating arm, ejector, and the barrel ends on the sides of the receiver. I used E6000 to adhere the grip scales then masked off the radiator and bolt and applied a weathering wash comprised of black acrylic and light brown. Once this dried, I applied a flat clear coat over the whole rifle. Tonight, I will complete assembly and this T-21 will be complete. I will weight the completed rifle and report back. Thanks for the interest.
  10. Update 12/2/19 I have added a few additional 3D models to my Thingiverse for this build. First, I redesigned the rear sight mount. I added the rear sight with roll marks and adjustment knob and combined them with the receiver rear and stock mount plate. I modified my T-21 transition to fit a Shop Vac Extension Wand (read further to understand why) and included the front radiator and flash hider, a backing for the radiator, the front end cap ring, and two barrel ends for the sides of the receiver. Lastly, I finished the models off with the two end caps for the oil brush that are mounted in the stock, the front sight, the trigger, and the gas key adjustment lever. Once I finished the models, I printed them, and they came out great. I should note that each file is printed in 0.07 Ultradetail which takes about 30 hours. After printing, everything got sanded and cleaned. After cleaning, everything got primer and then paint. Next, using Pandatrooper’s pattern and making some minor alterations, I cut the rifle out of Sentra. Once I had the shape, I started to dry fit parts and figure out where things would sit. Initially I was using a larger PVC pipe for the sides of the receiver and in these pictures, the lines you see where for the larger pipe. Here I was working out the trigger and test fitting the trigger guard. I reused the trigger from my previous T-21 but I have made a 3D model for anyone wanting to print one. Around this time, I realized the pipe I was using was a bit larger than I wanted so I found some ¾” SDR 21 PVC pipe which is irrigation thin wall PVC. I used this pipe along with a section of ½” Schedule 40 PVC pipe to make the side barrels on the receiver. I cut each pipe lengthwise in half then sanded them. Next, I drilled the ejection port and finished it with the dremmel. Next, I painted the ¾” pipes black and the ½” pipe silver. I glued the ½” pipe inside the ¾” pipe and then test fit them on the gun. Notice the remainder of the glue line under the new pipe, from the larger pipe I removed. This size pipe better aligns with the barrel part of the radiator. Next, I needed to replace the top aerial gun sight that is seen on the Rogue One version of the T-21. On my previous build I used an iron pipe I-bolt. Since reducing weight was one of my primary goals, I needed to find a new solution. I eventually decided to make the sight out of aluminum. I took some aluminum stock and worked it on my metal lathe. Next, I threaded the parts then cleaned the parts for painting. I also needed to remake the aluminum legs that protrude from the stock mounting plate and into the stock. Once everything was cleaned, I painted all the parts with a black bake on metal paint I use for gunsmithing. While the parts were baking, I took a hard look at my previous T-21 to determine what were the heavy parts. As I stated previously, the base of the T-21 was plywood and the switch to Sentra seamed to reduce the weight buy more than half. All the resin parts on the previous T-21 were heavy as well and switching them with 3D parts further reduced the weight. Switching from the Iron sight to an aluminum one reduced the weight; however, I soon realized that one of the heaviest parts on the previous T-21 was at the extreme front end of the gun, the 2.5” electrical conduit I used for the tapered bore of the barrel shroud was very heavy. I originally used this part because the outside diameter was 2.75”. I looked for a good replacement, but I had very little luck. I could special order a pipe with the outside diameter of 2.75” but most of the options were either too expensive, the wrong material like acrylic, had too thick a wall, or weighed too much. I was forced to consider a pipe with an outside diameter of 2.5” and again I was hard pressed to find a light weight option. Eventually, I found a shop vac extension wand a Lowes that had an outside diameter of 2.5” at one end and tapered to 2.25” at the other end of its 20” length. I only needed about 7” in length and if I measured the seven inches from the larger end the outside diameter of the smaller end would be just shy of 2.5”. The wand was fairly thin walled (about 1/8”) and very light. So about $8.00 this should work. I reworked the T-21 transition 3D model and included it on my Thingiverse page. So with all the parts gathered I continued to assemble the T-21. Next, I looked over the reference pictures and discovered that there are only two rings visible on the large part of the barrel shroud. One about 2” from the rear of the shroud and one with the front sight attached to it. There is also only one on the smaller part of the shroud at the extreme front of the barrel. So since I was reusing the barrel from my previous build I needed to remove some of the rings, fill some holes, re-score the exposed parts of the shroud and re-apply the rubber tubing. I used ¼” windshield washer tube for this. I added 4 mounting screw holes near the rear of the shroud that will be covered by the rear most ring and will make the barrel removable for easy transport. I still need to apply the feed tray parts and grips and finish painting then do a black/ brown wash over the whole thing to weather it but it is coming along nicely and the weight is amazingly very very light. I wish I had though to weigh the previous gun for a comparison, but I would say this thing will end up being 1/4 -1/3 the weight of the previous version. That is it for the update so far. Thanks for the interest.
  11. Update: 11/25/2019 I have been very busy with other things, so I have slipped in updating this thread. I did model and print the greeble part for the TD. I have added the file for free download on my thingiverse page. It is embedded with the ROTK Greeble 01 files. I have also been re-working my T-21, updates to follow here: http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?/topic/16557-11b30b4s-ro-t-21-version-2-build/ As far as the armor is concerned, like I said, I have printed the TD greeble, so I needed to cut the existing part. Here is how the part looks from 850 AW and the 3D printed greeble next to it. So after some cutting and some gluing, this is what it looked like. Next, I sanded the cast buttons and glued them in place. I cut out the “D” hole and sanded everything. Next, using two blocks of ½” thick Sentra, I made a mount for the TD. It was not necessary to hollow out the center, but I did it before I figured out how I would mount the T-nuts. I mounted them the same way I did the belt boxes. Once it was constructed, I glued the mount and the cover plate on the TD. Lastly, I needed to cut down the end caps to get the proper spacing between the end caps and the cover plate. Unfortunately super glue is fairly instant and one of the end caps got **** eyed. So, I will need to figure out how to fix this issue before I paint the TD because the contrast between the grey and white will really make this issue stand out. Thanks for the interest.
  12. I built a RO T-21 last year and documented it on FISD here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45451-11b30b4s-ro-t-21-build/?tab=comments#comment-622694 This is how it turned out However, I used plywood as the base material, and it is a bit heavy after trooping with it for any period of time. I also used Spool86's cast kit (heavily modified) for a lot of the parts. So, I wanted a more arcuate and lighter weight T-21. To this end, I have modeled a lot of the parts and 3D printed them. I will make these parts available for free download from my Thingiverse page here: https://www.thingiverse.com/11b30b4/designs So, a few notes before we begin. The overall demission’s are very close to Pandatrooper’s diagram. I will be reusing the already made stock from my original RO T-21 and some of the other parts. I hope to re-use the barrel, but I will need to determine if it will mate with the new printed parts. Yoshix created a thread in this forum to discuss the RO T-21 differences but I had not seen it unitl now since most of my previous stuff was on FISD. A good catch was the space on the barrel before the rubber tubing. I did not build my previous T-21 with this gap in mind but I will endeavor to include it for this build. Although there are five different variants of the Lewis gun and there are a ton of different manufacturers of each variant I will be primarily using the MK1 variant. There are not a lot of pictures of the RO T-21 and the ones that I have found are lacking in detail. I have collected a large number of detail pictures of actual Lewis guns from across the internet to develop the 3D models. Although I could make a completely accurate model, there are a few areas I will need to divert from to make this something more buildable. One specific thing I have omitted is the underside of the cooling vent area mid-section of the gun. Seen here (yellow outline) is what was omitted for anyone wanting to go overboard in their build. There are a few other very minor details that I did not include in the 3D models but for the most part, they should be correct. I have embedded many of the roll marks seen on various pictures I have found. Most notably will be roll marks on the feed tray. For the base material of this build I will be using ½” (12.7mm) thick Sentra. I purchased a 4’x’8 sheet of Veranda HP brand PVC board from Home Depot for $69.00. Obviously, you will not need a whole sheet of this stuff but its hard to find in smaller quantities. Sentra is PVC board and Veranda is just a different brand. Keep in mind that I am working within the limitations of Tinkercad as I am not a CAD engineer. That being said, here are the models I have built so far. This is the main feed tray cover, mid-section cooling vents and vent housing. This is the center feed tray, ejector, feed operating arm, rear sight mount, forward feed tray, and assembly pegs. Receiver left side Receiver right side Rear receiver and stock mounting plate I have already started printing these parts and here are some of the raw prints before finishing. I have a Prusa I3 Mk3 and I use MatterHackers MH Build series 1.75mm ABS filament. Some tips on printing: Any of the parts with horizontal holes or overhangs should be supported. I printed everything in ABS and to prevent any elephant foot (warping near the build plate) I printed everything with a brim. As for detail I used 0.07mm ultradetail with a fill of 15% for anything that had any detail. I printed the receiver rear and stock mounting plate at 0.10 detail with all the same settings for fill, brim, and support. That is it for now, thanks for the interest.
  13. Update 11/13/2019 First, I have printed the greeble parts and they came out great so here is the link to download them for free if you want them. https://www.thingiverse.com/11b30b4/designs The weekend was very busy, and I did not get as far as I wanted but I did make some progress. First, the 29 hours 3D print turned out great. Once these parts were sanded and cleaned, I used CA glue to adhere them to the abdomen. I also realized that the extension under the abdomen detail (where the belt would go) was angled and did not provide a good base for the belt to lay on so I cut most of it off the armor and used one of the 3” tall pieces of ABS to make a new mounting surface. I shaped this piece with a heat gun and a large metal (60qt) pot to get the basic shape. Then I used CA glue and applied the 3” strip to the overhang and clamped it in place. In this picture you can see the side by side comparison with my Jimmiroquai abdomen. Next, I bit the bullet and purchased a .125 4’ x 8’ piece of HIPS (Black) and used this to make the belt. I was not sure the teeth on top of the belt would hold up if I made it out of Sentra. The front belt started out 3.5” tall and 27” wide. Once I had all the greebles in place I could figure out where the teeth needed to go. To be completely accurate, there should be two additional teeth between the two side greebles and the front center ribs but there is not enough room, so I omitted these teeth. Next, I cut out the teeth and this removed most of the top ½” of the belt. Using the heat gun and large metal pot, I shaped the belt and clamped it on the armor to figure out where all the boxes would go. As I said previously, the 850Aw kit comes with box inserts but I have decided to mount the boxes differently. Using ½” thick Sentra, I made tight fitting inserts for each box. I then drilled them and mounted T-nuts in them. I used #8-32 T-nuts along with #8-32 x ½” round head screws. The T-nut is counter sunk after using a spade bit. Next, I mounted all the inserts on the belt and test fit the boxes. Next, because the round head screws would protrude on the back side of the belt, I needed to cut away some of the abdomen to allow the belt to lay flat. Also, I knew I wanted the belt to snap on the armor, so I mounted some 4-part snaps in the belt and abdomen. For the armor I used more abs glued from the inside for the snaps. Next, I test fit everything together. You can also see that I used the center rib from the cast center greeble to finish out the piece. Once I was sure how everything would fit, I used CA glue and baking soda to glue in the T-nuts so they would not back out then glued the boxes over the inserts. These boxes can now be removed from the belt and then re applied after painting. Next, I decided to modify two of the boxes. In this picture you can see the boxes that are on my Jimmiroquai kit. The boxes from 850AW are close but not as close as I wanted. So, using a ½” acrylic rod, I cut and glued the rod in place then added some PC-7 to give it the correct profile. While the PC-7 was curing, I started work on the Thermal Detonator. The 850Aw parts are two end caps, two halves of the tube, one cover detail part and one cast part. I cut out all the parts and assembled the tube. I suppose I could have I used a piece of PVC pipe for this but I wanted to keep the weight of the Thermal Detonator down, so I stuck with the included armor parts. After I got the correct circumference, I glued the tube together and filled the seams with Bondo. Most likely, I will do some modification to the round protruding part on the detail plate for the Thermal Detonator, Possibly a 3D printed part. If I do the 3D part, I will add it to for download on my thingiverse page. That is where I am so far. Thanks for the interest.
  14. Update 11/7/19 I have started to work on the armor. When I started work on my Jimmiroquai ROTK, it was suggested I start with the abdomen and work away from the center since most of the armor is tethered to the abdomen. For the 850 Armor Works kit I have decided to do the same thing. Additionally, I did considerable cutting and modifying of the Jimmiroquai kit to be more screen accurate and although the 850 AW kit will be a Sandtrooper, I will need to modify some parts. I will endeavor to cover in detail the strapping and any modifications since these seem to be the type of questions, I still get about my Jimmiroquai kit. Lastly, I have never built a set of vacuum formed Stormtrooper armor like the OT stuff. My only Stormtrooper experience is with my Jimmiroquai kit so as unfair as it may be, I can only compare the 850 AW kit with the Jimmiroquai kit. I will make a few comments about comparison as the build progresses. First, I trimmed the three parts that become the abdominal armor. The Front (C), the side extender (B) which must be cut in half, and the back (A) which also must be cut in half. There is also a back-cover plate that is not in this picture. Next, I measured and glued the parts together. I used super (CA) glue along with a CA glue accelerator. I will strap and continue to work on the abdomen as I move along with the build. For now, it is on hold because I have decided to 3D print the detail parts. The 850 AW kit comes with several cast parts that are fairly rough. Here is an example of the two horizontal blocks that go to the back plate. It appears to me that 850 AW 3D printed these parts then cast them. The print lines are still visible in the casting. I really did not want to sand all the parts as much as would be required so I built my own 3D models of these parts and I am printing them on ultra detail with my Prusa I3Mk3 so the cleanup will be considerably less. One of the other issues I have with the supplied parts is that the cast parts have bubble holes in them and those would need to be filled so printing my own parts removes this issue as well. I do not think less of the kit or 850 AW for these parts. This kit cost 400.00 and all the cast parts are still very usable for someone who does not have the ability to recreate them. I will most likely shar my 3D files for free on my Thingiverse page once I have finished printing them and verified, they are good to go. Next, I began to work on the belt. The first thing I noticed about the 850 AW kit belt parts is that they were smaller than the Jimmiroquai parts. All the boxes are smaller and the two supplied strips of ABS to use for the belt is smaller as well. The tallest box that mounts on the belt is 2 ¾” and the belt is 3 1/8” tall. This presents an issue since the RO belt has teeth that protrude across the top and lock into the abdominal armor. There is very little room above the boxes to cut the teeth out. Therefore, I will be making the belt from something other than the supplied strips. I do not have any HIPS or ABS laying around so I will make my belt out of Sentra; however, I do not know how well this will hold up so I may need to remake the belt at a later date. Another thing different from the Jimmiroquai kit is that the boxes for the 850 AW kit are 2-part boxes, a front and a back for each box. This is a good thing because of how I plan on attaching the boxes on the belt. Anyway, here are the parts before cutting. And here are all the boxes cut. I still need to trim the edges. Ok so that is as far as I got last night. More to come. Thanks for the interest.
  15. DarthStevius, Crashmann, and Hausi, thank you all for your complements and comments. Hausi, the Sandcrawler is insane; although, it pales in comparison to the Brazilian garrison’s parade float. That thing is truly insane. Update, 11/2/19 I knocked out the black wash and clear coat, re-assembled the field pack and I am very pleased with how it turned out. If I were doing this build again, I most likely would use more Sentra where I used actual wood; however, I was unsure how well the Sentra would hold up having the straps mounted to it. Regardless, the wood should hold up nicely. I will do more pictures with the armor once I get the 850AW kit completed. So for now, here are the field pack pics. So, now the work on the armor begins. Thanks for the interest.
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