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11b30b4

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11b30b4 last won the day on October 17

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About 11b30b4

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    bat.akaan

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  • Name
    Jeff
  • Location
    Atlanta

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    20980
  • Garrison
    Naast Clan Mandalorian Mercs

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  1. Update 11/13/2019 First, I have printed the greeble parts and they came out great so here is the link to download them for free if you want them. https://www.thingiverse.com/11b30b4/designs The weekend was very busy, and I did not get as far as I wanted but I did make some progress. First, the 29 hours 3D print turned out great. Once these parts were sanded and cleaned, I used CA glue to adhere them to the abdomen. I also realized that the extension under the abdomen detail (where the belt would go) was angled and did not provide a good base for the belt to lay on so I cut most of it off the armor and used one of the 3” tall pieces of ABS to make a new mounting surface. I shaped this piece with a heat gun and a large metal (60qt) pot to get the basic shape. Then I used CA glue and applied the 3” strip to the overhang and clamped it in place. In this picture you can see the side by side comparison with my Jimmiroquai abdomen. Next, I bit the bullet and purchased a .125 4’ x 8’ piece of HIPS (Black) and used this to make the belt. I was not sure the teeth on top of the belt would hold up if I made it out of Sentra. The front belt started out 3.5” tall and 27” wide. Once I had all the greebles in place I could figure out where the teeth needed to go. To be completely accurate, there should be two additional teeth between the two side greebles and the front center ribs but there is not enough room, so I omitted these teeth. Next, I cut out the teeth and this removed most of the top ½” of the belt. Using the heat gun and large metal pot, I shaped the belt and clamped it on the armor to figure out where all the boxes would go. As I said previously, the 850Aw kit comes with box inserts but I have decided to mount the boxes differently. Using ½” thick Sentra, I made tight fitting inserts for each box. I then drilled them and mounted T-nuts in them. I used #8-32 T-nuts along with #8-32 x ½” round head screws. The T-nut is counter sunk after using a spade bit. Next, I mounted all the inserts on the belt and test fit the boxes. Next, because the round head screws would protrude on the back side of the belt, I needed to cut away some of the abdomen to allow the belt to lay flat. Also, I knew I wanted the belt to snap on the armor, so I mounted some 4-part snaps in the belt and abdomen. For the armor I used more abs glued from the inside for the snaps. Next, I test fit everything together. You can also see that I used the center rib from the cast center greeble to finish out the piece. Once I was sure how everything would fit, I used CA glue and baking soda to glue in the T-nuts so they would not back out then glued the boxes over the inserts. These boxes can now be removed from the belt and then re applied after painting. Next, I decided to modify two of the boxes. In this picture you can see the boxes that are on my Jimmiroquai kit. The boxes from 850AW are close but not as close as I wanted. So, using a ½” acrylic rod, I cut and glued the rod in place then added some PC-7 to give it the correct profile. While the PC-7 was curing, I started work on the Thermal Detonator. The 850Aw parts are two end caps, two halves of the tube, one cover detail part and one cast part. I cut out all the parts and assembled the tube. I suppose I could have I used a piece of PVC pipe for this but I wanted to keep the weight of the Thermal Detonator down, so I stuck with the included armor parts. After I got the correct circumference, I glued the tube together and filled the seams with Bondo. Most likely, I will do some modification to the round protruding part on the detail plate for the Thermal Detonator, Possibly a 3D printed part. If I do the 3D part, I will add it to for download on my thingiverse page. That is where I am so far. Thanks for the interest.
  2. Update 11/7/19 I have started to work on the armor. When I started work on my Jimmiroquai ROTK, it was suggested I start with the abdomen and work away from the center since most of the armor is tethered to the abdomen. For the 850 Armor Works kit I have decided to do the same thing. Additionally, I did considerable cutting and modifying of the Jimmiroquai kit to be more screen accurate and although the 850 AW kit will be a Sandtrooper, I will need to modify some parts. I will endeavor to cover in detail the strapping and any modifications since these seem to be the type of questions, I still get about my Jimmiroquai kit. Lastly, I have never built a set of vacuum formed Stormtrooper armor like the OT stuff. My only Stormtrooper experience is with my Jimmiroquai kit so as unfair as it may be, I can only compare the 850 AW kit with the Jimmiroquai kit. I will make a few comments about comparison as the build progresses. First, I trimmed the three parts that become the abdominal armor. The Front (C), the side extender (B) which must be cut in half, and the back (A) which also must be cut in half. There is also a back-cover plate that is not in this picture. Next, I measured and glued the parts together. I used super (CA) glue along with a CA glue accelerator. I will strap and continue to work on the abdomen as I move along with the build. For now, it is on hold because I have decided to 3D print the detail parts. The 850 AW kit comes with several cast parts that are fairly rough. Here is an example of the two horizontal blocks that go to the back plate. It appears to me that 850 AW 3D printed these parts then cast them. The print lines are still visible in the casting. I really did not want to sand all the parts as much as would be required so I built my own 3D models of these parts and I am printing them on ultra detail with my Prusa I3Mk3 so the cleanup will be considerably less. One of the other issues I have with the supplied parts is that the cast parts have bubble holes in them and those would need to be filled so printing my own parts removes this issue as well. I do not think less of the kit or 850 AW for these parts. This kit cost 400.00 and all the cast parts are still very usable for someone who does not have the ability to recreate them. I will most likely shar my 3D files for free on my Thingiverse page once I have finished printing them and verified, they are good to go. Next, I began to work on the belt. The first thing I noticed about the 850 AW kit belt parts is that they were smaller than the Jimmiroquai parts. All the boxes are smaller and the two supplied strips of ABS to use for the belt is smaller as well. The tallest box that mounts on the belt is 2 ¾” and the belt is 3 1/8” tall. This presents an issue since the RO belt has teeth that protrude across the top and lock into the abdominal armor. There is very little room above the boxes to cut the teeth out. Therefore, I will be making the belt from something other than the supplied strips. I do not have any HIPS or ABS laying around so I will make my belt out of Sentra; however, I do not know how well this will hold up so I may need to remake the belt at a later date. Another thing different from the Jimmiroquai kit is that the boxes for the 850 AW kit are 2-part boxes, a front and a back for each box. This is a good thing because of how I plan on attaching the boxes on the belt. Anyway, here are the parts before cutting. And here are all the boxes cut. I still need to trim the edges. Ok so that is as far as I got last night. More to come. Thanks for the interest.
  3. DarthStevius, Crashmann, and Hausi, thank you all for your complements and comments. Hausi, the Sandcrawler is insane; although, it pales in comparison to the Brazilian garrison’s parade float. That thing is truly insane. Update, 11/2/19 I knocked out the black wash and clear coat, re-assembled the field pack and I am very pleased with how it turned out. If I were doing this build again, I most likely would use more Sentra where I used actual wood; however, I was unsure how well the Sentra would hold up having the straps mounted to it. Regardless, the wood should hold up nicely. I will do more pictures with the armor once I get the 850AW kit completed. So for now, here are the field pack pics. So, now the work on the armor begins. Thanks for the interest.
  4. Update 10-30-19 Well I had two troops this weekend, so I did not get as much done as I wanted. I have begun the weathering. First, I mixed up some coffee brown and black and air brushed it around all the low laying areas on all the parts and along all the seams on the boxes. Since the color is dark its hard to see but it is there and a bit more noticeable in person. Next, I dry brushed silver on most of the edges and simulated some scratches. Next, I used pandatrooper’s method of sandtrooper weathering and mixed some Burnt Umber and Mars Black then applied it with a sponge on all the white and blue/grey parts. I let this sit for 5 minutes then removed a good bit of the paint with a slightly damp rag. Next, I will be doing a black wash over all the black parts to mute the silver a bit. After that is dry I will clear coat everything with a flat clear and then re-assemble the pack. Lastly, I will add some padding to back of the pack to help protect the armor and I should be done with the pack. Thanks for the interest.
  5. Update 10/28/2019 Well I got the strapping figured out and test fit everything. This is a pic of the wood insert for the bottom box. You can see the T-nuts I used. When its inserted the two bolts with washers are where the bottom of the shoulder straps are mounted. The top box has a similar setup. I removed the wedge and mounted the straps and this is how the initially looked. After I put the pack on with armor, I realized that the top straps were spreading too wide and conflicted with my shoulder bells, so I crossed these straps inside the box, and this mitigated the spread. I also added a chest strap to hold the straps closer to my neck. Next, I tried on the pack again and everything seems to be sitting correctly. I was concerned that the pack would ride too low and push down on my Thermal Detonator but I the pack stayed where I wanted it. Now I will paint all the frame parts and re-assemble the pack and weather it. Once the pack is done, I will start on the Armor. Thanks for the interest.
  6. Update, 10-25-2019 I purchased a 2” wide 1/8” thick and 6’ tall flat aluminum bar and bent it to fit the two boxes. I cut slits in the boxes to allow for the bar and began mounting the bar. Also, I glued up the white pine blocks and let them sit overnight. I used a piece of ½” thick plywood for the bottom support. I will get a better picture tonight but basically, I drilled out to holes and inserted 2 T-nuts. There two bolts with washers are screwed into them and they are where the bottom of the shoulder straps will mount. Once all this stuff is fabricated, it will be painted flat black. And that is it for the update. Thanks for the interest.
  7. Update 10/24/2019 I have started working on how to achieve the proper angle tilt of the top box and how to attach shoulder straps. I have considered the frame idea and decided to not use that method. I think I will attach the straps to the inside of the boxes directly. The main issue with not using a frame will be how to connect the two boxes. In these pictures I have a wedge of Sentra between the two boxes to hold them in position. I have already attached the plunger and antenna so all that is needed now is connecting the two boxes and shoulder straps. In this back picture I am planning on attaching two blocks of Sentra (yellow box). Possible I will layer this with Sentra and white pine. The pine board will keep the screws (I plan to use) from ripping out of the Sentra. Next, I will fabricate two aluminum brackets (Red box) that will connect the top box to the bottom box and hold the angle of the top box. If I extend these brackets and filler blocks to the top inside the top box, I can attach the tops of the shoulder straps to them and then connect the bottom of the shoulder straps similarly to the bottom box. After I do all this I can removed the Sentra wedge and I believe this will keep everything together and keep the weight down. Well that’s my plan. Thanks for the interest.
  8. Update 10/23/2019 I have mounted most of the parts. I used drywall screws for this, and everything is looking great. I still need to mount the antenna and plunger, but I am holding off till I figure out exactly what angle the top box should sit and figure out how to attack the frame. That’s it for the update. Thanks for the interest.
  9. Update 10/21/19 After printing the last parts of the plunger, I assembled the parts, sanded them, and primed them. Next, I began to assemble the main boxes. For the boxes I used ½” thick Sentra (Veranda brand) to make them. At $75.00 per 4’ x 8’ sheet, it is considerably more expensive than plywood or MDF but the weight saved and ease of workability is well worth it. Mandalorian Mecs use Sentra to make our armor unlike the vacuum formed armor for TKs, TDs, etc… Sentra comes in a variety of thicknesses and is a thermoplastic so you can heat it and shape it. Anyway, ½” is what we used to make our Sandcrawler here in GA. So I figured it would do nicely for the field pack. First, I cut all the parts and test fit them. Next, using a routing table and a ½” straight bit I made the two long cuts on the sides of the top box. Next, using a 3/8” roundover bit, rounded the outer edges of the boxes. Next, using some 3mm Sentra I made the rectangle greebles and glued them in place. Next, using the ½” sentra, I made mounts for the various parts to raise them to the proper height. After the mounts were done I assembled the boxes and test fit all the other parts inside the boxes. Next, I primed the interior greebles and then painted them flat black. Next, I assembled the plunger and painted it flat black. I also painted most of the other greebles flat black. Next, I mixed some white, black, and blue airbrush paints to get a color that I felt was close to the screen used blue/grey for the jar, shake weight, and miniature vaporator condensation bulb and painted them. I did make an effort to fill and sand most cracks and separation lines, but I opted to leave some parts somewhat raw with noticeable defects. This will make the weathering easier and more realistic as these areas will fill with darker colors when I do my black wash. I ran out of primer over the weekend so I will finish priming and painting the boxes this week and assemble all the parts. Once that is completed, I will start on the frame. I still need to figure out what angle the top box sits in relation to the bottom box and figure out how to strap everything. That is it for the update. Thanks for the interest.
  10. Update, 10-18-2019 I am hoping to make some serious progress this weekend. Last night I started some painting and worked on a few parts. First, I painted the two white tube things (I believe one is called a miniature vaporator condensation bulb). These will be weathered as well as everything else once they are all test fitted in the field pack. Next, I painted the antenna assembly black. Next, I glued the bottom of the bottle and mounted the bottle in the plunger dome. Next, I painted the three white greebles and primed the two heat sinks. Next, I sanded and assembled the two grenades. Lastly, the final print (the baffle section of the plunger) is printing and should be done today. And that is where I am. Thanks for the interest.
  11. Update 10/17/2019 So sanding and sanding and more sanding. I printed the two smaller heat sinks and risers, the shake weight thing and the grenade mounts. Here are the heat sinks mounted and sanded. Since all the source pictures are of such low quality its hard to actually determine exactly how many fins these heat sinks have. Five is what I have seen in others builds so that is what I went with. I was unable to find an exact match of an actual heat sink so either the five fins is incorrect, or I was unable to locate the actual greeble, or they manufactured these from scratch for the screen used prop. I do not believe they would manufacture them since almost everything used in Rogue One was modified existing stuff but who really knows? Here are some greebles primed. The tall stand is the mount for the shake weight thing. This should raise it to sit flush with the white tube thing. I love how ambiguous I am being with describing the various parts of the backpack, not. Here is the shake weight assembled and primed. Test fit of the four box greebles. I am thinking I will figure out how tall they need to be and build mounts for them out of Sentra. Next, I will paint them separately then assemble them. Another pic of parts drying. The plunger top and bottom have been sanded and the bottom jar has been test fitted. For my jar I am not using the Ryobi jar that Yoshix used, rather a different jar that was a bit tall so I cut off the bottom and am 3D printing a new bottom that will be applied to it. The black sharpie lines on the domes are used as references for sanding to make sure I sand the entire part. Start on one sides of the line and work my way around till I get to the line again. Like I said before I start with 150 grit then do it again with 220. And that is everything so far. Thanks for the interest.
  12. Chopper, thank you and I am looking forward to working with the 850AW kit. Just from my initial inspection, the kit looks to be of good quality. More to come on it in the future. OK, over the past few weeks I have been finalizing all my 3D models and scale drawings. As I said before, I will not be sharing the models so please do not ask. I will, however, share my scale drawing. Keep in mind its not 100% verified yet but so far everything is lining up well. So how did I come up with all the data to develop 3D models and a scale drawing. I had 2 sources. First there is the picture on p.133 in the Rogue One Ultimate Visual Guide By Pablo Hidalgo. Honestly, there are not a lot of sources out there that I was able to locate. Second, there is Yoshix’s build. Yosh used two items in his build that allowed me to develop some basic scaling. First, he used CDs for the plunger baffles which are 120mm in diameter. Further, Yosh used a Ryobi #20 FSC wood biscuits jar in his build. Based on the known sizes of these two items I was able to able to extrapolate most of the pack’s details. Additionally, I discovered the North Bridge South Bridge Aluminum Heat Sink and used it as a third reference. In addition to these references, I also wanted to streamline the build and avoid 3D printing some fo the structural stuff if I could. For the Antennas longest thick section I used a piece of 2” Sch. 40 PVC pipe. For the shaft of the antenna top I used a 1” thin wall PVC pipe and the antenna top is a white plastic coat hanger that was roughly 10mm in diameter. I scaled all my 3D models for these dimensions and printed out all the antenna parts first. Around this time, I located a piece of acrylic pipe I had laying around. This pipe was about 81mm in diameter and thin walled. It was perfect for the two-white tube greebles. I know on other versions of the Sandtrooper packs people have used hand wipe containers for similar greebles, but I wanted something a bit more rigid. I scaled the end caps to fit this pipe and printed them as well. Next, I sanded all the parts and pipes with 150 grit then 220 grit sand paper. I used super (CA glue to assemble most of this stuff and filled any gaps with superglue and baking soda then sanded again. Once it was all glued and sanded and test fit, I applied a layer of primer. The 3D printing process is quite time consuming. For example, all 4 of the end caps for the white tube greebles, it took 1 day 8 hours and 34 minutes. I am printing everything at 0.10 detail on my Prusa I3Mk3. I could print the parts in a shorter time frame, but the detail would suffer and add more post printing sanding. I have started sanding the box detail and here is a picture of the 3D model of the greeble that I replaced with the heat sink. As you can see, even with that level of detail the print did not turn out very well. I am glad I discovered the heat sinks. I ordered a pack of 5 of them from Amazon for $9.59. You should also be able to see that the heat sinks have two mounting points on them. I cut these off and sanded the sides flush. Here is a test fit of them on one of the boxes. So, I have a good bit of printing and sanding to go, and I want to have all the parts done before I cut out the large boxes to hose everything. I will attempt to upload the pdf of the scale drawing in this post. Thanks for the interest. pack.pdf
  13. Good morning all, I have previously built a level 3 ROTK (Jimmiroquai) and have been fairly active on FISD with the ROTK community. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44463-11b30b4’s-rotk-build/ I have also built the Jedha Crystal Patrol pack. http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?/topic/15924-11b30b4’s-ro-crystal-patrol-pack-build/ Additionally, I have built a RO T-21. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45451-11b30b4s-ro-t-21-build/?tab=comments#comment-627575 For this TD build, I have already modified the Black Series ROTK helmet. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48054-11b30b4’s-black-series-helmet-mod/ Currently, I am working on the Type 4 Sandtrooper pack and another RO armor kit, this one from 850AW. My intention is to get this kit approved for MEPD. I really like Yoshix’s build and have decided to make the pack from scratch. I will be 3D printing most of the parts and using PVC foam boards for the boxes. I have already started printing some of the parts and one of the parts did not printed well because I did not print it with enough detail. The part in question is the square greeble (yellow circle) in this picture. So, I think this part is actually a North Bridge South Bridge Aluminum Heat Sink like this: And I think the two greebles circled in red are also heat sinks. As for the remainder of the parts, I have not spent a lot of time tracking them down. Like I said, I will be 3D printing most of them and using the few reference pics to make them to scale as close as I can. I usually share all my 3D models on thingiverse for free; however, for this build I will most likely not share the files. I do not want to step on CrookKnight’s hard work and business. Besides, I am sure his models are better than mine since I am doing everything in tinkercad and not a “real” cad program. Anyway, more to come in the next few weeks and months. I am excited to finally get to this build going, so this is my initial post. Thanks for the interest.
  14. Plainsrunner, it was great meeting you at DC. love the kit and the shin idea.
  15. There was also a space trooper but it was cut before filming because someone stole one of the space backpacks.
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