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3 Cadet Rated

About SDB15

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  • Birthday 12/15/1985

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  • 501st ID
  • Garrison
  1. TD 15115 is 10-41

    American Fork Diabetic Clinic Halloween Party. We arrested and interrogated the suspect, but decided to let him off with a warning.
  2. Helmet lenses and S trim

    I think I would build three of those tabs from the video. One on each side and one on the bottom.
  3. Helmet lenses and S trim

    We could be more helpful if you post pictures of what you're working with. Yes, there should be a lip. Here is one alternate method:
  4. TD 15115 is 10-41

    1st Arrest: Diabetic Clinic Halloween Party, American Fork Hospital We were called out on a possible animal at large. Booking photos to follow.
  5. Request 501st or Sandtrooper Section Access

    TD-15115 requests access.
  6. Shoulder bell question

    They should be symmetrical as well as interchangeable. When in doubt, cut it too big and try it on until it matches a reference picture.
  7. TD in Progress

    I think I may be close. I'm not quite happy with the shoulder fit and may do some tinkering. I also need to do some work on the helmet interior. I set my phone to time lapse so I've got a lot of photos: https://goo.gl/photos/kVU2pNBJt6Bx4eAU9
  8. TD in Progress

    Ok, here is the first pass. I think I'm happy with how it all turned out. I may stop here or even go a little lighter on the legs.
  9. TD in Progress

    Thanks for the advice. I will keep it very light for my first pass and post photos before continuing.
  10. TD in Progress

    Ok, so partial success on my first attempt at weathering: The dark edge on the right side didn't work at all and the sanding on the flat surfaces looked terrible. This poor mask took some serious abuse in the name of experimentation. It wasn't all bad. I like the way the sanding under left eye turned out. My sand mix looks great and I'm getting the hang of getting the right consistency of paint (watering down using equal parts paint and water). I like the oil color (50-50 burnt umber and black with just a touch of ochre to lighten it) far less than the sand (40-60 burnt umber and ochre). I will use the oil mix sparingly and maybe only on the legs. The darkened edge didn't work very well, but the blaster burn is pretty cool. Things I learned: Weathering takes time and patience. The initial application of the paint does not matter very much, it is the wet paper towel pass that gives the texture. The paint needs longer to dry than you think before doing your dry paper towel (removal) pass. Sanding is highly technical and should be used very sparingly. You should use strokes in one direction only. Sanding on flat areas does not produce a good effect. The only places that should be sanded are the high exposed edges (see the left eye) and the recessed crevices where you want sand to build up (see the lower edge of the tears). Circular sanding motions do not look natural, even when a blaster burn is the intended effect. Sanded plastic will only take the first color that is applied. Subsequent passes won't do much. So here is my plan so far: Use the weathering approach from the left side as the first pass for the entire kit. Sand the left raised edge of the center of the chest plate using diagonal strokes from the corner, inward (same process as with the left eye). Use the dark oil mix on this area. Add an oil pass to the legs and work up with successively less on upper pieces. Do you see anything I'm missing? Any suggestions?
  11. TD in Progress

    Here's a link to the album while I troubleshoot: https://goo.gl/photos/kVU2pNBJt6Bx4eAU9 *Update: should be fixed now. Sometimes pictures will show up in the editor but the sharing settings aren't updated. I think I have the formula down now.
  12. TD in Progress

    I've made those changes, but haven't done another fitting. I also put a hard hat liner in the helmet and did some additional trimming to improve air flow. It is a new month, so I was able to buy paint. I'd like my weathering to be a combination of the following: To me, this is the perfect amount of weathering. It is dirty, but not overpowering or caked on. I bought yellow ocre and burnt umber. Do you think I'll be able to get this effect from those pigments? Or should I look for a tan as well? I really like what this guy did with the chest plate and pauldron. I'd like to add a couple of these grease spots, but I think I'll keep the grease off the helmet. I'm following the grease tutorial in the weathering board. I have a mask piece that was damaged in shipping, so I'm going to use it to experiment on. I started by hitting some of the raised edges with some sandpaper. I also went over the undersides of the eyes. Next, we'll see how the scratches pick up the paint (particularly, my grease spot pass). This isn't how I plan to do my actual helmet, but it'll hopefully give me an idea of how to get the result I want.
  13. TD in Progress

    Thanks! I see what you mean on the vocoder, but I'm not sure how to fix it at this point. Placing the rivet high made the belt look crooked. Should it have an angle on it?
  14. TD in Progress

    Based on those comments (thanks again) . . . To Do Raise thighs (reduce elastic 1/4", but save previous version) Round off ammo knee Taper right leg Add helmet chin strap Check tension on bicep elastic
  15. Junior MEPD badge stickers

    Let's try this again: https://photos.app.goo.gl/uJIaSaZQ0qcvppsp2