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Everything posted by Hausi

  1. Spraypainting sand color isn't a good idea, I've seen it done before and it didn't look right at all. Brushing on a black wash first followed by a sand colored wash and dabbing most of it off again with paper towels is the way to go to achieve the most screenaccurate finish. I also use fine grit sandpaper to roughen up the edges a bit and then rub over it with some wet or dry black and white newspaper pages.
  2. Hi, may I ask why you want to paint your armor? The original screen-used armor wasn't painted, only the olive green HDPE stunt helmets were painted white. RS armor isn't painted, they offer their armor either in ABS or PVC.
  3. Hey Chester, welcome again! Thank you for providing the requested pictures so quickly and already improving some details. Now it´s time to start your real review, so let´s go: Application Review: Part 1 Name: Chester Petersen Legion ID: TD-30055 Forum Name: Zahnism Garrison: Danish Garrison Helmet a. Green lenses: check b. Paint color of traps / tears: check c. Correct number of teeth: check d. Mic tips: check e. Vocoder color: check f. Tube stripes: check g. Rank bar on ears: check h. Brow: check i. Side screws (ears): check j. Weathering: check *additional comments* Nice job on the helmet, you really nailed the sandy look. RESULT ON HELMET Checked & Cleared Armor details a. elastic straps shoulders: check b. neck seal: check c. black undersuit: check d. shoulder bells: check e. biceps: check f. forearms: check g. pauldron: check h. chest / back plate: see comments i. kidney / butt plate: check j. ab plate / side rivets / cod: see comments k. strapping system: see comments l. thighs: check m. shins / calves: check n. sniper plate: check o. boots: check p. gloves: check q. hand plates / guards: check r. ammo belt (waist): check s. ammo belt (right knee): see comments t. canvas belt: check u. pouches: see comments v. weathering: check *additional comments* I think that the gap between your biceps and forearms is a little big as the forearms seem to be rather short but I´m going to let this pass Chester, this isn´t anything which is going to hinder your deployment but I personally think that your forearm armor is too large, I´m pretty sure you could decrease the circumference, so your hand barely fits through the front opening. 1: The screws emulating the original screen-used strapping in the bottom returnedge of your chest aren´t evenly spaced. Have a look at the picture you can see that you can actually get away with relocating that one screw only, then fill up the hole with some ABS paste which is easy enough the fabricate: I hope you still have some ABS leftovers from trimming your armor, cut them into very small pieces and drown them in actone. 2: As you can see in the following picture, the rivet in the codpiece is missing, so please add it. Your codpiece also is shaped quite strangely but that is okay. 3: The rivet connecting the knee ammo belt to the thigh has to be relocated too (see the correct position highlighted with the red circle in the picture), so you can take some of that ABS brew to close the old hole too. 4: As I was already assuming, your shoulder pouch is made of leather. This would be okay for a deathtrooper but not for a sandtrooper. This style of pouches seen on screen was made of canvas (as shown in the left picture above). It is possible to use a different style of leather pouch for the shoulder too, please have a look at the CRLs to find out which one is acceptable. http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?/topic/16077-attention-new-po-crl%C2%B4s-for-td-valid-from-1172019/ RESULT ON ARMOR pending Backpack a. details: check b. weathering: check *additional comments* RESULT ON BACKPACK Checked & Cleared Weapon a. details: check b. weathering: check *additional comments* Your E-11 looks great, however, I always encourage people to take the next step and go full “Bapty” , I´m sure you know what I´m talking about. RESULT ON WEAPONS Checked & Cleared Chester, this was your first review! Keep up the good work, you are very close to deployment and I think those changes are manageable. I´m looking forward to seeing some new pics of your improved gear soon. Cheers mate Hausi - MEPD Deployment Officer
  4. Hello Chester, welcome and thank you for your interest in joining the Empire´s deployed elite forces. Your application looks great, your gear suits you well and I dig your weathering, mate, well done. Just curious: is that Ross´s armor and an RS pack? Either Bigwam or myself will be taking care of your review but before we can begin, we will need to see some more pics: -a pic of the six rivets connecting kidney and ab section (I can see that they are there but I have to see a detail picture) -a pic of the back of the male snap at the top corner of the abdomen. - a pic of the rivet and back of the snaps connecting cod and butt piece. - could you provide a more detailed picture of your shoulder pouch please? I´m especally intereste if it´s canvas, it somehow looks like leather to me. I can already tell you that you will have to dirty up those elastics on the shoulders but that´s an easy job. So I am looking forward to seeing those pics added and to starting your review.
  5. Yeah mate, Dampfnudeln are delicious. However I also don't snack very often first of all because Reese's aren't as easily available here in Germany and secondly because I still want to look good in armor. I first thought that they just tried to match the look of that ANH thing visible in the middle of the gun which most people thought was some sort of sight (it was obviously some sort of twisted phone cable).
  6. I´ve messed around with some reference pics too, trying to improve the lighting and details:
  7. Hey mate, I´ll be starting my pack#1 build soon and am doing research right now, studying pictures and getting a headache I see most people using hovi mictips for the little sheet of plastic above the filter but I don´t think that there aren´t any... I rather think that the left side is rather cut off quite skewly, and the edge of the seedtray itself might create the illusion of a mictip being present. Same on the right side where I think it´s possible that it only is the shadow of the sanding disc on top of the bottle. What do you and everyone else think?
  8. Thank you Roger Weathering done... and here it is. with this indoor shot taken yesterday evening, the wash with Vallejo earts is still missing as I applied it today but because of the lighting, the details are clearer to see: Today I took some outdoor shots in the morning, trying to recreate the lighting of the movie with the sun/light coming from the left side: here´s the original helmet in the movie: I finally added the lense foil and took some more pics from all sides: I can already say that I´m not completely happy with the flame detail on the forehead as it is slighly too small and a little too far left. I´m going to improve this on my next helmet. Cheers mates.
  9. bottom: here you can see that my neck opening is a little too wide as the DA helmet doesn´t match the shape and curves of the original.
  10. back: Emulating the overlap of the bottom s-trim was quite difficult and I don´t think I got it quite right.
  11. Here are some comparison pics, my helmet always first followed by the real one.
  12. Roger has got the best reference pics, good to have you mate!
  13. Hi everyone, Andy from DA /shed of glittering delight did a small run of 1mm HDPE helmets and the detail on them looked pretty sharp so I bought one as a fun project. My initial goal was to throw this one together as quickly as possible not emulating any specific helmet, just for the fun of it as I love building helmets. So in about 2 hours I had it trimmed and assembled. But then I realised that it somehow reminded me of the "Look sir, droids" helmet and I put it aside to get to work on it at a later point again. So it sat there with a skateboard helmet sticker on it. about half a year later I started work on it again, studying reference pics and realising that there had to be a few changes to be made, so I adjusted the allignment, reworked the ears and filled up that one tooth hole which I had cut out a little too hastily with bondo. This being said, I have to say that I think that this helmet isn´t the ideal choice to emulate the "Look sir, droids" helmet. Andy has obviously reworked his molds since, but with this one, the faceplate´s sides are too short which is why the distance between the ears and the tears is too small. Also the bottom of the helmet (cap and back) doesn´t have the right shape/curve to it. Furthermore is the bottom of the faceplate all wrinkled up so I had to cut that off as well. As I still have a very accurate Anon Stormtrooper helmet here, I consider this one as practise. Being only 1mm, it is also quite soft and probably wouldn´t withstand the stress of trooping. Don´t get me wrong here, as all HDPE material, it´s almost indestructible but it´s just very easy to push the dome inwards and the paint would just start chipping. For the paintchips I used Vallejo masking fluid, which is colored so you can still see it, way better that the colorless Revell color stop I´ve been using before. I rather went for the as-seen-on-screen-look with the rather low brow: In some of these pics that were taken at a later date, the weathering has mostly gone and the brow has obviously slipped up, revealing the chipped paint underneath. I also tried to emulate those paint chips so they seem smaller as if the chipping hadn´t progressed so far. Here´s what it looked like after applying the white paint. I also had already started painting the black details.
  14. Looks great Chris, how are the zip ties holding up? Looks pretty sturdy to me, The exhaust port tube looks a little long but that should appear less obvious as soon as you have added the hose clamp.
  15. What an awesome idea with the "present packs" and the pauldron! You guys really look festive.
  16. Hey mate, have a look at the CRLs: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:Mimban_Trooper here you can find all the relevant requirements to be approved. As I understand this, the forearms must be completely closed, no velcro allowed, while velcro should be fine for the shins as those have to be closed at the back. Just try to have the front opening of your forearms as small as possible so you barely can push your hand through the opening.
  17. Hey Jeff, good to hear that you enjoyed your time in Germany and still have some fond memories. I've been to the states several times and it was always a blast. I'm still addicted to those Reese's peanut butter cups. The black wash has done the job to tone down the silver dry-brushing, looks much more natural now. So the stock is wood, man, that's a piece of art and really sells it,great work. How did you paint it? You even sourced the right sling, which looks very different to the Enfield sling on the ANH T-21.
  18. You are doing some amazing work here mate! I really like your attention to detail. That T-21 looks great. Some points to think about though: Your silver dry-brushing looks a little unnatural, maybe just slightl too much. Have you tried Rub'n Buff? That stuff is really cool but you will also have to seal it with some clear coat. I couldn't really see this specific detail in your reference pic but I would suggest using some putty to smoothen the transition of the tapered barrel shroud. That what I did when I did my first T-21 scratchbuild. Keep up the great work and keep those pictures coming, looking forward to seeing your progress!
  19. Looks great! Let's see some more pics, sides and top too.
  20. I haven't got much experience with 3D printing but I think the shape of the canteen looks good. But why are there these indentations in the top and bottom part? They should actually be smooth while the main body normally has a structured surface on the original Gio'style canteens. Maybe you could emulate that by using special paint.
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