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Hausi

Command Staff
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Everything posted by Hausi

  1. Thank you Roger When I posted pics on FB, people believed I'd been lucky enough to get a real one... made me happy. But I have to admit I went a little overboard with the nerdism on this project. Back to helmets now.
  2. Thank you Roger and Vincent for the kind words! Roger, I know, I´m such a nerd, I can´t believe it myself... and I´m proud of it. As you were asking for my source of the pleather, got it from ebay, am quite happy with it as it´s only subtly structured. https://www.ebay.de/itm/Automobil-Kunstleder-Meterware-Sitzbezug-Polsterstoff-in-schwarz-150-cm-Breite/372665484347?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=641449882023&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648 I put on the remaining stickers, assembled it and before weathering, I used Microsoft word to replicate the "220V" sticker and the "WARNING" sticker. original: mine: I just messed around with it until it looked about right, printed them and put a layer of self-adhesive film on top, so it would survive the following weathering. I tried to get the "MIC" and "EAR" stamps on the pleather surround as well but it didn´t work out as planned, so I´m not completely happy with this particular detail. This is what it looks like on Tony´s original: I decided against the techniques I regularly use for weathering, which is watered down black and earth acrylic paint dabbed off with paper towels and used some kind of sponge my wife uses to clean her leather winter boots and refresh the black colour. I just used it as it was and didn´t apply any more shoe polish. I wanted to achieve just a subtle used and greasy effect and I´m happy with it. Finally, for the first time ever, I have used fuller´s earth to do the weathering and while I would never use it on armor, it worked just fine on the radio, making it look dusty and old. And here´s the finished project: And now it´s on display with some of my favourite stuff... maybe one day I will attach it to a pack for some time. That would just add to the realism of having a screen-used radio... with even more holes in the back cover. Cheers mates
  3. Next up was painting. The original Sonix Radio faceplate has some metal edges left and right of the speaker in the middle and the metal shows a little where the paint has worn off, it also looks just a tad bit rusty: pics showing Tony´s radio: my replica: Tony supplies stickers and decals with his kit but I used a white wax crayon to get some paint into the recesses. As it can be seen on the original, I added mesh behind the speaker area:
  4. Hi everyone, I would like to show you some pics of my fake Sonix 75. As some of my friends have real Sonix Victory 75 or Northstar radios, I wanted one too for display purposes, but spending a grand was just not what I wanted to do and as I like to build stuff, I ordered one of Tony´s amazing Sonix World kits which is cast of a real Sonix Victory 75 radio which he owns. You can find him on FB by the way. The kit is top notch, a very high quality cast with all the important little details. This is what you get if you order a kit: With that solid and sturdy faceplate, the kit is heavier than other available kits but that didn´t matter at all as I decided to build this as realistic as possible for display purposes, just to showcase it. So what one has to build oneself is the box you will mount the faceplate to as well as the pleather suround. I´ve built the box from a 2mm black ABS sheet: If you look at the backside of a real radio, you will see that there is a cover made of cardboard covered in pleather too, which is hold in place by two snaps and hides the battery compartment as well as the cable. The following picture was kindly provided by bigwam/Thomas, it´s a screenshot taken from a video which shows him opening his Northstar radio: So this is what I wanted to replicate. It just had to look right, at no time did I plan to add any functional electronics to make it work like a real radio. Let me tell you that drilling all those holes was a pain in the ... I´ve made a template which made it slightly easier: I was at least lucky enough to find a suitable battery compartment for the four so-called mono-cell batteries but it was black and I had to paint it white. I also heat formed the sides of the backplate so I was able to use some tiny screws to attach that battery compartment. the cover had to have the matching holes in it too so it took me quite some time to punch those holes but I also added the stamped in the letters "HONG KONG" as seen on the original. I then build the pleather suround, also had to order a different kind of pleather as the one I had used for my radio builds so far didn´t match the looks of the real deal. Again I cut out cardboard pieces and covered them in pleather, then punched in some holes with the correct pattern and then just used a needle and some thread to emulate the sewing.
  5. Thanks Dan and Roger! Without your great reference pics, I wouldn't have been able to do this, so thanks again for providing them Roger. I'm sure your helmet will turn out great, good things are worth waiting for, cheers mate
  6. Great work Roger, love the duct tape! It seems to me that we truly are similar detail nuts.
  7. I had a Lego Stormtrooper Commander helmet lying around, those are in my opinion the best miniature helmet out there but the come with unpainted ears and the lines inside the traps and tears, so I painted the ears and also painted over the lives and finally used a toothpick to apply the specific weathering details for the "Look Sir, droids" helmet to have a "mini me" version. Final shot shows the two Anon Stormtrooper HDPE helmets I have built. Cheers mates
  8. Some more details, this time regarding the painting of the traps and tears:
  9. Thank you Thomas! Some more pics. This helmet has an amazing amount of fun little details: screen reference: mine: RoCKo was so kind to provide the following reference pics of the helmet (note: cleaned and obviously taken after filming) always followed by a pic of my helmet arranged in the same way:
  10. Yeah sure but those are canvas pouches, the leather pouches seen on screen are Stolla Wien pouches and they don't have that smaller tool compartment, you can find the different acceptable leather pouches here:
  11. I´m going to try to cut a long story short here as I have already posted so many helmet builds here. So on we go with pics of the finished project and comparisons to screenshots: my helmet outside: and inside (artificial lighting) I always take pictures from a certain distance and then zoom in to get the angle right.
  12. And it´s me again with my second take on the infamous Davin Felth/"Look Sir, droids" helmet. While the weathering on the DA lid was still drying, I started trimming my Anon Stormtrooper HDPE kit (have I already said that I love these kits?) I tried my best to capture all the small details on this specific helmet: After being happy with the alignment of the parts came painting
  13. Well, you can at least see it in the pics where I'm giving my best trying to carry it around. I'm sorry that the detail pics are all gone, I've been using different picture hosting sites and most of them have let me down. I might re-post them again when I find the time.
  14. That configuration should be okay for basic approval but still depends on the responsible GMO of your garrison. If you decide to go for PO/level two approval, you will have to get rid of that smaller tool compartment on the pictured leather MP40 pouch.
  15. No I didn't, I haven't tried it on my scratchbuild but sold it and got a rubber cast of a real Lewis gun with all the details. Sorry that I can't be of more help.
  16. Recommended sellers which I have already had Bapties of are Sheartech and Imperial Warfighters, both can be found on FB.
  17. No, it isn't. You will need the Bapty version of the E-11, please read the Level 1&2 requirements if you are really interested in this level of screenaccuracy.
  18. I love it when a pack comes to life! Great work Björn.
  19. That sometimes depends on the maker of your armor and whether it is acrylic capped ABS, as paint doesn't stick very well to the material. Actually 48 hours should be fine. Some add a final layer of clearcoat or even hairspray, maybe try it on a scrap piece a part of your armor which is less noticeable, just in case you aren't happy with the result.
  20. Yeah mate, I dig that weathering, looks very natural. Just give it enough time to dry before you wear it, I can already see it coming off on your chest where the shoulder pouch rubs on the armor.
  21. Looks okay to me, should be clearable but I can't really tell from that one grainy picture. Have a look at the requirements here: Then check out the armor to get an idea how much work will be required. What is even more important is : does it fit your body? The biceps and thighs seem quite big and if you're a thin person, you will have to make these parts fit. Hope this helps, cheers mate
  22. Hey Helder, congrats, very well deserved, great work mate.
  23. Thanks for those kind words guys, appreciate it! @519 Trooper your build thread was extremely helpful and made my build so much easier, it's great if people like you still take the time and put so much effort into writing such a detailed thread and it always makes for an entertaining read, so thanks again.
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