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Jancelot

Sandtrooper
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Everything posted by Jancelot

  1. I recommend three straps for the chest to ab. It keeps the pieces in alignment better and prevents the top from popping behind the bottom. The movie strapping had three, so it'll line up nicely when you do Police Officer mods.
  2. My Hyperfirm RC-97c doesn't weigh much more than the HF DLT-19. The T-21 is a beast. DLT-19: hyperfirm. least cumbersome. Plenty of ways to grip it. Classic. T21: wood/pvc. heavy, greeblies on the barrel limit grip options. Biggest one and people love it. Installed electronics are fun. RT-97c: hyperfirm. Awkward to grip due to the ammo canisters. Most unique due to the ammo canisters. Aesthetically the RT is my preferred BFG. But for long troops it's the DLT-19 or E-11. Occasionally I'll break out the T-21.
  3. Dig it! I'd take it in patch and shirt. That design would be killer on a blended 70s style shirt.
  4. done. invaluable site. impeccable people. cheers.
  5. I get my snaps from Trooperbay: https://trooperbay.com/sew-on-shoulder-strap-snaps.html For elastic, I use 2" heavy duty. I double it up, but that's probably not necessary.
  6. Congrats and welcome! AP is a great kit. I'd call out the sniper plate, but it's moot since you're going TD. I built mine 3 years ago so I'm looking forward to your progress with the updated kit. Here's my FISD build thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/17863-tk-0393-ap-buildap/
  7. Looking good! Personally I'm an e6000 guy. It takes longer (buy lots of clamps, lol) but I've never had a crack or anything pull apart. That said, I always add inner cover strips as well. They go on first, then I add the outer ones. Super sturdy with the extra enforcement, but also flexible due to the e6000. It's probably overkill, but I like the peace of mind. I have lots of garrison mates who are all about the ca glue + kicker.
  8. Note, those are screws and not machine screws or bolts. How are you planning on keeping them secure? Drive them in to the plastic? I'd worry a bit about putting stress on the return edges that way. With machine screws I drill a hole, add a slight counter-sink, and then screw a nut on to secure. No stress on the plastic. Here's a machine screw (disregard the phillips slot).
  9. Nice! I picked up flat-head slotted 6-32 3/8" machine screws which are very close in size for a US equivalent. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091717A0
  10. Welcome! Looking forward to your progress. * Note: on the right-hand side of the photobucket image page is a series of four boxes. If you click on the one for IMG it will copy the link and you can paste it in your post. Then your images will show up.
  11. Is it possible to move the pack #2 annotations to the initial post?
  12. Welcome! Looking forward to your progress.
  13. Update, troopermaster identifies the bolts per below. That 8mm length is more inline with the 3/8" measurement. But the M3 is roughly equivalent to the 6-32.
  14. Thanks, Jason. The originals look to be a 1/2" 6-32 mechanical screw. The rub is that they should be slotted and not phillips heads. As I'm not using the actual bracket, I chose to go with a 3/8" length so they don't stick out as far. I didn't find them at Home Depot or Lowes, but I ordered mine from Amazon and they are perfect. Note, you'll need to order the nuts separately. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091717A0
  15. I'm interested as well. I have an older version I'd like to update.
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