TK Bondservnt

nice work!

I have a few, but I'm putting them on blasters!

best news in 11 years!! awesome!!! finally!! just one thought... where's the kneeplate!!

no wonder his stuff was so expensive! that oreck can cost a bundle!! heheh...

I'm old school with the one with nazi zombies. I'll hit you up for a friend invite!

the schematic drawing is the source for these parts, they come from the amplifier circuit where you'd have vacuum tubes, and the inner part is the capacitor to channel the voltage. there has been some discussion at the FISD on this subject, and the method for making your own is pretty clearly detailed.

everything I learned from andy19422 on the FISD, he, and sskunky have really shown the way ahead of me... that's for sure. all the blasters in this thread are nice enough indeed. having a real sterling, or at least the parts from one, is the best way to go! and I finally have the 32 rnd clip to cut down. eventually the accuracy of my kits will include many details from all these original parts. but right now- all I'm doing is making up the Doopy Do's kit.

NOW THAT"S WHAT I"M TALKING BOUT! HECK YAH!

I would have to say that there are subtle differences if you all look closely at the blasters offered in photos on this thread. I'll give my opinions about the elements that I see on each blaster where I see the problem: hyperfirm: number one I'd have to say that the hyperfirm has several problems with it- the magazine is far too cut down. the sight rail front and rear are incorrect. the seam that runs all along the body of the blaster should not be there. the D ring and hengstler could be much better. T Tracks are totally wrong! the blastech armory version: the sight rail is too short at the front and rear. the end cap is wrong, it's a nice cap, but it's shaped too round. the folding stock arm is not shaped correctly the bend at the meeting point should curve. the front sight block is incorrect. I would have to see a closer look at the trigger and grips to make an opinion about it. the SDS blaster: the clip is too short. the hengstler is wrong kind, and is mounted too far out. the overall shapes are correct, but there are several screws that should not show. the D ring, and front barrel screws could look better. the doopy do's kit: the clip is not curved, it's too short, and has no mag lock. the front barrel nuts are a soft pull. the kit does not come with a scope or a hengstler, so that's another minus. if you order the scope, it's a really nice replica, good detail, and compares correctly with the screen used type. the hengstler you'd order from doopy do's is not the eagle logo, it's the 611 logo. nice but wrong! all in all the best looking blasters mentioned in this thread, being the blastmaster e-11's just came from the APEX kit in colorado, and he used a resin pipe on one, and a milled metal pipe on the other. his T Tracks are from the home depot plastic rake. they are really nice, but they have a slight taper on the height. hard to see, but it's there. sabrefreak on the RPF or GINO would be the best options for T Track. if you wanted the best, go for the GINO, if you want 'darn good enough' then go for the sabrefreak! best course of action is to obtain a deact sterling and the proper scope. getting a metal socket hengstler is very tough, I would ask andy19422 on the FISD about that. apex gun parts is my best suggestion: you also have to keep in mind that the parts kit does not come with the magazine, which can be purchased separately.

there are about 4 different ways I've seen the ANH blaster sight rail attached. one has it tucked into the front vent hole, and is bolted through the rear sight block. one has it tucked into the rear sight with a bolt, and has the floating front. one has the rear come down and bolt just short of the rear sight block, and is tucked into the front. and one just seems to angle down in front, and 'float' or is not fully attached in the front, but just sits on top, just short of the barrell shroud vent and is also bolted through the rear sight block. most of the scopes appear to be attached with the simple flat slotted screws that the scope is originally mounted with, they don't appear to be large hex head screws like most people use. and the hengstler wires are nothing like everyone makes. they were just small insulated wires and had very few loops. and some have offered up the concept that one wire was red, and the other green.