TK-607

Thanks for all the positive feedback I'll pass on to my Dad and he'll happy to hear that. Acutally I ordering the right tube stripes and getting some hengstler counters for the proper ANH look. btw. weight is only 1,26 kg (2,78 lbs) @DirtyBoy yes he'll do a small series around 5 or 10 blaster after I convinced him to make more than one Cheers, Joerg / TK-607

I prefer the E11-Blaster my Dad is actually working on because there wasn't any blaster out there which fulfill all my needs. It's a full-metal (aluminium) blaster, very light compared due the real one or even the Master Replica Version, fully functional (except for the shooting-part ) and perfect for "trooping". Link Hi-Res Pic Cheers, Joerg / TK-607

You can "fix" them with hairspray but I won't recommend that if you plan to remove it. Just grab some Woodland colours, follow the tutorial by TK-1536 and go dirty without fixing it. During the event some of the colour will rub off and you can do another layer of weathering if you like it. After 2-3 layers of re-weathering the texture will become more and more realistic. Cheers, Joerg / TD-607

Armor FX is a fan made armor which is still very popular an widespread within the 501st. It's a good armor but not very screen accurate. I don't have any good comparsion photos here, but check that pic on www.starwarshelmet.com and you'll see the differences. (Link: Armor comparsion and FX helmet) Also check the real/original helmet section. There a some good photos of screen used helmets and you'll see how "asymmetrical" the helmet is when you check the top-view photos. Cheers, TK-607

Nice find, they look great. Will you move the litte toolpouch to the left? If he dye them we will know. When the thread stays white it's an replica because the don't have synthetic yarn back in WW2 era. I think the natural weathering over the last 60 years would more look like this pouch. Cheers, TK-607

Great pics. Keep us updated Be safe, take care and come back soon buddy. Cheers from germany, Joerg / TK-607

Hi Harald, looks nice so far, eventually a little bit "flat". May I ask which colors you use? I would recommend the Woodland Scenic colors because they have many advantages in comparsion to normal paint. You can scrub ist off completely with alcohol if the weathering went wrong and you can "pad" (tupfen) the color with a paper towel to avoid streaks. If you like you can contact me via PM and I can give you some tips in german. Will be much easier for me to explain some details which may help you with the weathering. Cheers, Joerg / TK-607

Depends on many things, mostly the price depends on some collector criterias like: Condition of the parts: used or "new" (some parts, complete MG's went directly from the depot to some collectors after WW2, they're in 1a condition and really expensive if you can lay your hands on one of these babies). Serial number: Weapon collectors look for the serial number. If a weapon has one serial number on all/most parts then you can add 1.000+ bucks on top. Origin: A used MG 42 from Yugoslavia are mostly fabricated after WW2 and are much cheaper than a "real" WW2 MG from germany. From 500 EUR to 2500 EUR everything is possible. Cheers, TK-607

RAL is a color standard and i knew that 9010 is a white which tends more to a warmer yellow than colder blue grey tone. Due limited brands in my local hardware store (own brand and BELTON) and the "OBI" one had no plastic primer I used BELTON. Here are the direct links: BELTON SpectRAL BELTON Plastic Primer The paint is scratch resistant and won't go off if you rub over it with the woodland colors. Let the paint cure for 2-3 days to be sure. I used around 4 spraycans (400ml) for the whole suit and color testing. 3 cans will be enough I think. Cheers, TK-607

Thanks for your comments Yes I painted it. I used PlasticPrimer and "RAL 9010" white glossy Spraypaint (3 layers) before I weathered it. (I used Woodland Scenic colors slate grey, burnt umber and yellow ocher) Mike's Weathering tutorial is here: http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?showtopic=4239 Cheers, TK-607

Hi folks, after endless nights of cutting, sanding, painting I finished my TE1 suit just right in time for JC2010. Here are some pics of the complete armor. Enjoy TK-607 Thanks to: TD-1536 for his neat weathering tutorial and inspiration for a good looking paintjob. TD-8800 for his photo thread and strapping plan. Helped me alot on building up the suit. TD-2581 for all his support and trooper parts. Details: Weathering lower calf Abdomen with 3 buttons

What if you use some sort of "impact proof" resin? I only know a dealer here in germany who sell that stuff. It's called "Task" series. Links: (Sorry only in german available ;() http://www.kaupo.de/Produktkatalog/Polyure...TASK-Serie.html "Hauptanwendungen sind Prototyp- und Architekturmodelle, Spielzeugmodelle, ultradünne mechanische Teile und Spezialeffekte." "main application is for prototyping or architectural models, toys, ultra thin mechanical parts and special fx." I used that stuff for grip shells on my first E11 Blaster series. That stuff is awesome, you can't break that stuff and it's lightweight. A little bit pricy compared to nomal resin, tho. But it's worth the price and you can use less of that stuff to get a durable cast. Cheers, Joerg / TK-607

Nice work, great master mold 3D/CAD Prototyping is really awesome... One question. Will you vacform the frontplate or make a Resincopy?

Well, to be honest I have no clue where to look for such militaria stuff. e-Gun is way to expensive and whenever I look for something MG34/MG15 related all good shops located in the US. I would chop my hand off for an affordable resin cast of a MG15 to measure and rebuild it Cheers, TK 607