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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/22/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Since I finally got my @$$ in gear and modded the moulds. I know a lot of people struggle with the ears so I added the trim lines
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    Thanks bro... I will apply this idea of yours to my shins! Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk
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    The little bit of velcro you see on the front in that pic is to hold them onto the boot at the bottom.
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    So it's velcro in the back (so it can be separated to put it on), and the front inside is held snug by elastic strips. However the elastic transfers the stress of clamshelling the armor to the elastic instead of putting it on the armor. If you glue the front, the stress may cause cracks. To emphasize: the only thing holding the front together are glued elastic strips (with E6000). They hold snug and you can't tell it's not glued.
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    Hi, No, it's not a requirement for Level 3 Regards bigwam
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    Darthcue, since the Jimmy kit shins are clam shell, Plainsrunner put elastic inside connecting the two halves so they swing freely open on the front seam and can spread on the back seam. Plainsrunner, when you have a moment, can you shoot some pics of the shins inside to show this?
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    So good news bad news. Bad news, I will not be finishing the 850 Aw kit. I sold it to a friend who will be building a TK on whitearmor. Once he starts his build, I will leave a link here for anyone who want to follow it. So the good news is that the kit will still be built and as we work on it I will make any 3D model parts freely available to anyone on my thingiverse page. I will be starting the **** of 3D printing Mr. Paul's Shoretrooper kit and will be logging that over on pathfinders.
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    Update 11/13/2019 First, I have printed the greeble parts and they came out great so here is the link to download them for free if you want them. https://www.thingiverse.com/11b30b4/designs The weekend was very busy, and I did not get as far as I wanted but I did make some progress. First, the 29 hours 3D print turned out great. Once these parts were sanded and cleaned, I used CA glue to adhere them to the abdomen. I also realized that the extension under the abdomen detail (where the belt would go) was angled and did not provide a good base for the belt to lay on so I cut most of it off the armor and used one of the 3” tall pieces of ABS to make a new mounting surface. I shaped this piece with a heat gun and a large metal (60qt) pot to get the basic shape. Then I used CA glue and applied the 3” strip to the overhang and clamped it in place. In this picture you can see the side by side comparison with my Jimmiroquai abdomen. Next, I bit the bullet and purchased a .125 4’ x 8’ piece of HIPS (Black) and used this to make the belt. I was not sure the teeth on top of the belt would hold up if I made it out of Sentra. The front belt started out 3.5” tall and 27” wide. Once I had all the greebles in place I could figure out where the teeth needed to go. To be completely accurate, there should be two additional teeth between the two side greebles and the front center ribs but there is not enough room, so I omitted these teeth. Next, I cut out the teeth and this removed most of the top ½” of the belt. Using the heat gun and large metal pot, I shaped the belt and clamped it on the armor to figure out where all the boxes would go. As I said previously, the 850Aw kit comes with box inserts but I have decided to mount the boxes differently. Using ½” thick Sentra, I made tight fitting inserts for each box. I then drilled them and mounted T-nuts in them. I used #8-32 T-nuts along with #8-32 x ½” round head screws. The T-nut is counter sunk after using a spade bit. Next, I mounted all the inserts on the belt and test fit the boxes. Next, because the round head screws would protrude on the back side of the belt, I needed to cut away some of the abdomen to allow the belt to lay flat. Also, I knew I wanted the belt to snap on the armor, so I mounted some 4-part snaps in the belt and abdomen. For the armor I used more abs glued from the inside for the snaps. Next, I test fit everything together. You can also see that I used the center rib from the cast center greeble to finish out the piece. Once I was sure how everything would fit, I used CA glue and baking soda to glue in the T-nuts so they would not back out then glued the boxes over the inserts. These boxes can now be removed from the belt and then re applied after painting. Next, I decided to modify two of the boxes. In this picture you can see the boxes that are on my Jimmiroquai kit. The boxes from 850AW are close but not as close as I wanted. So, using a ½” acrylic rod, I cut and glued the rod in place then added some PC-7 to give it the correct profile. While the PC-7 was curing, I started work on the Thermal Detonator. The 850Aw parts are two end caps, two halves of the tube, one cover detail part and one cast part. I cut out all the parts and assembled the tube. I suppose I could have I used a piece of PVC pipe for this but I wanted to keep the weight of the Thermal Detonator down, so I stuck with the included armor parts. After I got the correct circumference, I glued the tube together and filled the seams with Bondo. Most likely, I will do some modification to the round protruding part on the detail plate for the Thermal Detonator, Possibly a 3D printed part. If I do the 3D part, I will add it to for download on my thingiverse page. That is where I am so far. Thanks for the interest.
  13. 1 point
    Likewise!! No cracks on the shins after the con. Thank goodness!
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    Plainsrunner, it was great meeting you at DC. love the kit and the shin idea.
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    Hi from another topic : I'ts my version a Rogue One E-11 blaster , was made some time ago . Full scratchbuilding, no 3D print or another parts Flashlight- my own production https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPfWs_o5IEtH9eylKjsWenJUJXy2A2STCDlPmvA6LR0rQ5VLhk349z5D9Lg_r1nIA?key=VTBxdmV0RWNMeGVtNzg0cDhiY3dCUTkyS0FObVJB BH
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    Hi John, I really like the overall look of your kit, fits you well, but I do agree with jcalus on the chestweathering which still looks a little too solid and to me also too simple, the trooper I´m emulating is wearing the same chest and helmet and I´ve spend quite a lot of time trying to get it right and I´m still not 100% happy with it. I have multiple layers of weathering on my chest, always added some colour, took some of again then added some more... Your helmet looks really good but I´m afraid you will have to close the two teeth. I also think that you will have to take off the UK Garrison decal (not allowed for SWAT) That´s an awesome DLT! Who is the maker? Just one thing: it looks factory-fresh: add some weathering to it Good luck with your review!
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