Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/29/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Thank you Roger and Vincent for the kind words! Roger, I know, I´m such a nerd, I can´t believe it myself... and I´m proud of it. As you were asking for my source of the pleather, got it from ebay, am quite happy with it as it´s only subtly structured. https://www.ebay.de/itm/Automobil-Kunstleder-Meterware-Sitzbezug-Polsterstoff-in-schwarz-150-cm-Breite/372665484347?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=641449882023&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648 I put on the remaining stickers, assembled it and before weathering, I used Microsoft word to replicate the "220V" sticker and the "WARNING" sticker. original: mine: I just messed around with it until it looked about right, printed them and put a layer of self-adhesive film on top, so it would survive the following weathering. I tried to get the "MIC" and "EAR" stamps on the pleather surround as well but it didn´t work out as planned, so I´m not completely happy with this particular detail. This is what it looks like on Tony´s original: I decided against the techniques I regularly use for weathering, which is watered down black and earth acrylic paint dabbed off with paper towels and used some kind of sponge my wife uses to clean her leather winter boots and refresh the black colour. I just used it as it was and didn´t apply any more shoe polish. I wanted to achieve just a subtle used and greasy effect and I´m happy with it. Finally, for the first time ever, I have used fuller´s earth to do the weathering and while I would never use it on armor, it worked just fine on the radio, making it look dusty and old. And here´s the finished project: And now it´s on display with some of my favourite stuff... maybe one day I will attach it to a pack for some time. That would just add to the realism of having a screen-used radio... with even more holes in the back cover. Cheers mates
  2. 2 points
    Well done David, well deserved! Grats on the Emperor Roughneck
  3. 1 point
    Since I finally got my @$$ in gear and modded the moulds. I know a lot of people struggle with the ears so I added the trim lines
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    Thanks bro... I will apply this idea of yours to my shins! Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk
  6. 1 point
    The little bit of velcro you see on the front in that pic is to hold them onto the boot at the bottom.
  7. 1 point
    So it's velcro in the back (so it can be separated to put it on), and the front inside is held snug by elastic strips. However the elastic transfers the stress of clamshelling the armor to the elastic instead of putting it on the armor. If you glue the front, the stress may cause cracks. To emphasize: the only thing holding the front together are glued elastic strips (with E6000). They hold snug and you can't tell it's not glued.
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Hi, No, it's not a requirement for Level 3 Regards bigwam
  11. 1 point
    Darthcue, since the Jimmy kit shins are clam shell, Plainsrunner put elastic inside connecting the two halves so they swing freely open on the front seam and can spread on the back seam. Plainsrunner, when you have a moment, can you shoot some pics of the shins inside to show this?
  12. 1 point
    hey, some more progress . . . . i ordered some samples to find a good alternative to the original, after I received my order, I sewed the red support the syphon was the hardest part for me to get it together, some areas very thin and cracks fast. after I glued all together and later I saw that I glued the thread area wrong together. no problme I cut all of and fire up my 3d printer. next step is to sand the syphon and add paint the original straps after I used Rit Dyemore but I had to change the foam, the old foam was after changing the paint not usable new fitting . . . . . greetings
  13. 1 point
    hi, here are some new pictures . . . . . greetings
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    A belated CONGRATS to all the fine member of the new Command Staff! You'll do a GREAT job, Tim! We're all with you! Thanks again to Justus for leading us the past few years! A BIG Welcome to all the new blood and rest assured that all certificate templates will be updated! Rock on, Troops! Together we are strong!
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    This work is amazing. Could really go through as original!
  18. 1 point
    Congrats David, well done! Great pics too, always looking mean and menacing (except for the one in which you are protecting your eyes) That's the way to go!
  19. 1 point
    That’s insane! I LOVE IT! That could pass as a original, bro! Since mine will be mounted on my TD backpack I will not go as far as you with the battery compartment but I will definitely revisiting it. Yours is the new standard for replica Sonix‘s from now on but I will try to come close...
  20. 1 point
    Love your troop photos, and congrats on number 25! I used to live in Amarillo, so it’s neat to see you in that setting! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. 1 point
    Acrylic paint is certainly good for some purposes, but being water based, it doesn't bond with the surface it's painted on. If you scrape your fingernail across any acrylic paint, it'll start to come right off. For the buttons and tube stripes, I would certainly use enamel paints. Much more durable.
  22. 1 point
    Cheers, Paul! I just bought a tin of #221 from Italy! I will think about repainting my ab buttons once more, maybe I’d go for the new color then...
  23. 1 point
    Lol...puhleaseeeeeee far from “fake” Urs, it’s “replica”. Stay awesome my man !
  24. 1 point
    Next up was painting. The original Sonix Radio faceplate has some metal edges left and right of the speaker in the middle and the metal shows a little where the paint has worn off, it also looks just a tad bit rusty: pics showing Tony´s radio: my replica: Tony supplies stickers and decals with his kit but I used a white wax crayon to get some paint into the recesses. As it can be seen on the original, I added mesh behind the speaker area:
  25. 1 point
    And it´s me again with my second take on the infamous Davin Felth/"Look Sir, droids" helmet. While the weathering on the DA lid was still drying, I started trimming my Anon Stormtrooper HDPE kit (have I already said that I love these kits?) I tried my best to capture all the small details on this specific helmet: After being happy with the alignment of the parts came painting
  26. 1 point
    56. Modellbautage Fürstenfeldbruck, 1.3.2020
  27. 1 point
    Before long you're likely going to set some sort of record for number of times reconstructing the same blaster! Your two threads have been VERY insightful as I've been gathering materials and plans for my own T-21 build, currently part of my HWT thread on FISD. Right now my plan is to do a pine stock and receiver with waste pipe and your 3D deck and other greeblies. I'm still deciding on the narrow barrel tip.
  28. 1 point
    Gorgeous Urs, you did it again! You’re a detail nut just like me, I hope I can achieve a similar nice helmet when I’m getting back to my Davon helmet again. For now it took me almost two weeks to add some more minor details to my TK bust. Take a look here When I’m going on with the same speed the Felth helmet will be finished around 2030! Note to myself: Never ever give away any reference pictures to Urs again, so that he can’t set the standard higher! Nah, just kidding, bro!
  29. 1 point
    Again, minor updates to my TK bust, sadly time is too limited to go on with the Davin helmet atm... First I finished the backside by adding a accurate Thermal Detonator by TM since I bought the TE2 armor in TD specification back then. added some white duct tape on areas as can be seen in ANH... (yeah, I know, nerdish but I love those minor details) received the missing ab plates from TM. (Thanks again, Paul!) Since the armor parts where painted with spray paint I also had to paint these before applying the blue and grey., Additionally I made some very small modifications to the buttons... actually I was again captured but those minor details, so I first painted all buttons black like on the screenused plates before I finally added blue and grey. I might add a little more wear and tear later on... Btw. I also ordered a pair of ESB hand plates, that way I can switch to ESB mode when I’m finished with the ESB helmet...
  30. 1 point
    So good news bad news. Bad news, I will not be finishing the 850 Aw kit. I sold it to a friend who will be building a TK on whitearmor. Once he starts his build, I will leave a link here for anyone who want to follow it. So the good news is that the kit will still be built and as we work on it I will make any 3D model parts freely available to anyone on my thingiverse page. I will be starting the **** of 3D printing Mr. Paul's Shoretrooper kit and will be logging that over on pathfinders.
  31. 1 point
    I had a Lego Stormtrooper Commander helmet lying around, those are in my opinion the best miniature helmet out there but the come with unpainted ears and the lines inside the traps and tears, so I painted the ears and also painted over the lives and finally used a toothpick to apply the specific weathering details for the "Look Sir, droids" helmet to have a "mini me" version. Final shot shows the two Anon Stormtrooper HDPE helmets I have built. Cheers mates
  32. 1 point
    Congratulations to @MrFlavaFlavefor reaching 25 troops and being the first roughneck award of 2020. Keep up the good work!
  33. 1 point
    Congratulations to the team!
  34. 1 point
    Troop #1 Event Name: Indianapolis Children's Museum by Moonlight 2/29/2020 Indianapolis Children's Museum Indy, IN
  35. 1 point
    I’ve been looking for a tutorial for a sandy helmet and since I have an unmade DA Props helmet......here we go
  36. 1 point
    Has there been any progress on our level 2 requirements?
  37. 1 point
    That sometimes depends on the maker of your armor and whether it is acrylic capped ABS, as paint doesn't stick very well to the material. Actually 48 hours should be fine. Some add a final layer of clearcoat or even hairspray, maybe try it on a scrap piece a part of your armor which is less noticeable, just in case you aren't happy with the result.
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Well done, Dan! Looks great! I especially like that you painted over the original trapezoid and rear stripes as this was done on the original helmets too. Adds even more screen accuracy! (Picture courtesy of GINO, please also visit his personal FACEBOOK PAGE to read more about this discovery!)
  40. 1 point
    Will be next year possibly if we have enough orders for a run. fall of 2020 most likely
  41. 1 point
    Update 11/13/2019 First, I have printed the greeble parts and they came out great so here is the link to download them for free if you want them. https://www.thingiverse.com/11b30b4/designs The weekend was very busy, and I did not get as far as I wanted but I did make some progress. First, the 29 hours 3D print turned out great. Once these parts were sanded and cleaned, I used CA glue to adhere them to the abdomen. I also realized that the extension under the abdomen detail (where the belt would go) was angled and did not provide a good base for the belt to lay on so I cut most of it off the armor and used one of the 3” tall pieces of ABS to make a new mounting surface. I shaped this piece with a heat gun and a large metal (60qt) pot to get the basic shape. Then I used CA glue and applied the 3” strip to the overhang and clamped it in place. In this picture you can see the side by side comparison with my Jimmiroquai abdomen. Next, I bit the bullet and purchased a .125 4’ x 8’ piece of HIPS (Black) and used this to make the belt. I was not sure the teeth on top of the belt would hold up if I made it out of Sentra. The front belt started out 3.5” tall and 27” wide. Once I had all the greebles in place I could figure out where the teeth needed to go. To be completely accurate, there should be two additional teeth between the two side greebles and the front center ribs but there is not enough room, so I omitted these teeth. Next, I cut out the teeth and this removed most of the top ½” of the belt. Using the heat gun and large metal pot, I shaped the belt and clamped it on the armor to figure out where all the boxes would go. As I said previously, the 850Aw kit comes with box inserts but I have decided to mount the boxes differently. Using ½” thick Sentra, I made tight fitting inserts for each box. I then drilled them and mounted T-nuts in them. I used #8-32 T-nuts along with #8-32 x ½” round head screws. The T-nut is counter sunk after using a spade bit. Next, I mounted all the inserts on the belt and test fit the boxes. Next, because the round head screws would protrude on the back side of the belt, I needed to cut away some of the abdomen to allow the belt to lay flat. Also, I knew I wanted the belt to snap on the armor, so I mounted some 4-part snaps in the belt and abdomen. For the armor I used more abs glued from the inside for the snaps. Next, I test fit everything together. You can also see that I used the center rib from the cast center greeble to finish out the piece. Once I was sure how everything would fit, I used CA glue and baking soda to glue in the T-nuts so they would not back out then glued the boxes over the inserts. These boxes can now be removed from the belt and then re applied after painting. Next, I decided to modify two of the boxes. In this picture you can see the boxes that are on my Jimmiroquai kit. The boxes from 850AW are close but not as close as I wanted. So, using a ½” acrylic rod, I cut and glued the rod in place then added some PC-7 to give it the correct profile. While the PC-7 was curing, I started work on the Thermal Detonator. The 850Aw parts are two end caps, two halves of the tube, one cover detail part and one cast part. I cut out all the parts and assembled the tube. I suppose I could have I used a piece of PVC pipe for this but I wanted to keep the weight of the Thermal Detonator down, so I stuck with the included armor parts. After I got the correct circumference, I glued the tube together and filled the seams with Bondo. Most likely, I will do some modification to the round protruding part on the detail plate for the Thermal Detonator, Possibly a 3D printed part. If I do the 3D part, I will add it to for download on my thingiverse page. That is where I am so far. Thanks for the interest.
  42. 1 point
    Likewise!! No cracks on the shins after the con. Thank goodness!
  43. 1 point
    Plainsrunner, it was great meeting you at DC. love the kit and the shin idea.
  44. 1 point
    Hi from another topic : I'ts my version a Rogue One E-11 blaster , was made some time ago . Full scratchbuilding, no 3D print or another parts Flashlight- my own production https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPfWs_o5IEtH9eylKjsWenJUJXy2A2STCDlPmvA6LR0rQ5VLhk349z5D9Lg_r1nIA?key=VTBxdmV0RWNMeGVtNzg0cDhiY3dCUTkyS0FObVJB BH
  45. 1 point
    I think you can sand down the returnedge at the bottom of your chest a little more, the scews I'm talking about are really small. You can find them in the second picture in this thread, encircled in red. You can add foam on the inside of your armor wherever you like, as long as it remains invisible. I for example have added foam on my shins and thighs, to make it more comfortable but also to keep the sniper knee from getting stuck inside the thigh, works brilliantly.
  46. 1 point
    Hi John, I really like the overall look of your kit, fits you well, but I do agree with jcalus on the chestweathering which still looks a little too solid and to me also too simple, the trooper I´m emulating is wearing the same chest and helmet and I´ve spend quite a lot of time trying to get it right and I´m still not 100% happy with it. I have multiple layers of weathering on my chest, always added some colour, took some of again then added some more... Your helmet looks really good but I´m afraid you will have to close the two teeth. I also think that you will have to take off the UK Garrison decal (not allowed for SWAT) That´s an awesome DLT! Who is the maker? Just one thing: it looks factory-fresh: add some weathering to it Good luck with your review!
  47. 1 point
    This helmet is quite tricky to build correctly. If you notice in the photos from Christies, the helmet is assembled with a very low brow. I believe the face was pushed forward and held with gaffer tape to get the high brow look on screen, if I remember correctly. Notice the distance from the tears to the ear caps. They differ quite a bit on either side, so take that into consideration when building the helmet. Good luck
  • Create New...