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I recently received this project in to finish for a friend of mine but long story short it will now stay with me. The print is from 3dpropsNL and it had taken me about 4 weeks from start to finish. I did a heap of research on the real items like the MG-15, single point scope, Tabby Type F & the No.32 scope, to make sure the finish was authentic. I found a heap of great info on the forums here so thank you to all the people that have posted pics of the real parts. I have added a number of pieces to add to the realism without taking away the Star Wars feel such as a ton of small screws & the red lenses to the scopes. This was a labour of love and I really enjoyed the build. I now have an E-11, DLT-19 & RT-97c. Next on the list is a T-21 but I have to acquire that first. Let me know what you think. I have trooped with this last night as well. Awkward but was worth it, got some great comments and really enjoyed the look

I have added the finishing details to my pack, can't wait to start using it.

I built a RO T-21 last year and documented it on FISD here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45451-11b30b4s-ro-t-21-build/?tab=comments#comment-622694 This is how it turned out However, I used plywood as the base material, and it is a bit heavy after trooping with it for any period of time. I also used Spool86's cast kit (heavily modified) for a lot of the parts. So, I wanted a more arcuate and lighter weight T-21. To this end, I have modeled a lot of the parts and 3D printed them. I will make these parts available for free download from my Thingiverse page here: https://www.thingiverse.com/11b30b4/designs So, a few notes before we begin. The overall demission’s are very close to Pandatrooper’s diagram. I will be reusing the already made stock from my original RO T-21 and some of the other parts. I hope to re-use the barrel, but I will need to determine if it will mate with the new printed parts. Yoshix created a thread in this forum to discuss the RO T-21 differences but I had not seen it unitl now since most of my previous stuff was on FISD. A good catch was the space on the barrel before the rubber tubing. I did not build my previous T-21 with this gap in mind but I will endeavor to include it for this build. Although there are five different variants of the Lewis gun and there are a ton of different manufacturers of each variant I will be primarily using the MK1 variant. There are not a lot of pictures of the RO T-21 and the ones that I have found are lacking in detail. I have collected a large number of detail pictures of actual Lewis guns from across the internet to develop the 3D models. Although I could make a completely accurate model, there are a few areas I will need to divert from to make this something more buildable. One specific thing I have omitted is the underside of the cooling vent area mid-section of the gun. Seen here (yellow outline) is what was omitted for anyone wanting to go overboard in their build. There are a few other very minor details that I did not include in the 3D models but for the most part, they should be correct. I have embedded many of the roll marks seen on various pictures I have found. Most notably will be roll marks on the feed tray. For the base material of this build I will be using ½” (12.7mm) thick Sentra. I purchased a 4’x’8 sheet of Veranda HP brand PVC board from Home Depot for $69.00. Obviously, you will not need a whole sheet of this stuff but its hard to find in smaller quantities. Sentra is PVC board and Veranda is just a different brand. Keep in mind that I am working within the limitations of Tinkercad as I am not a CAD engineer. That being said, here are the models I have built so far. This is the main feed tray cover, mid-section cooling vents and vent housing. This is the center feed tray, ejector, feed operating arm, rear sight mount, forward feed tray, and assembly pegs. Receiver left side Receiver right side Rear receiver and stock mounting plate I have already started printing these parts and here are some of the raw prints before finishing. I have a Prusa I3 Mk3 and I use MatterHackers MH Build series 1.75mm ABS filament. Some tips on printing: Any of the parts with horizontal holes or overhangs should be supported. I printed everything in ABS and to prevent any elephant foot (warping near the build plate) I printed everything with a brim. As for detail I used 0.07mm ultradetail with a fill of 15% for anything that had any detail. I printed the receiver rear and stock mounting plate at 0.10 detail with all the same settings for fill, brim, and support. That is it for now, thanks for the interest.