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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/18/2021 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Played around with one of my photos while I wait on basic approval.
  2. 1 point
    Interesting under suit. It appears to have the ribbing like the FO tk's.
  3. 1 point
  4. 1 point
    Man portable E-Web?! Because a T-21 just isn't hard enough to lug around on a long troop! Sent from my SM-J320FN using Tapatalk
  5. 1 point
    So it is some sort of heavy troop?
  6. 1 point
    Congratulation, next step: PO
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    Congratulations!!! Knew you’d be fine.
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Good day team, This is my build for the Sergeant Sandtrooper from Docking Bay 94 scene which is this trooper below Here is my application Name: Daniel Wong Legion ID: TD-6316 https://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=13767&costumeID=2 Forum name: tk6316 Garrison: Malaysia Garrison Armor: AP Helmet: AP Pauldron: Clive (BurkBench Designs) Neck seal: Tailored Gloves: Trooperbay Pouches: 1) Stolla Wein = Anthony Bailey 2) Small Spanish-Chilean Mauser = Trooperbay E11: Imperial Warfighters Field Pack: 1) Seed trays – RWA 2) Syphon – RWA 3) Frame - Vintage Karrimor Tot'em 4) Sonix Victory 75 radio – Crashmann 5) Tool box – Scratch built 6) Mushroom caps – Crookknight 7) Bottles – Shampoo bottle & Soap dispenser bottle 8) Radar dish – Vintage Tupperware 5” (ebay) 9) Bee stinger – Giostyle canteen 10) Mortar tube – Local hardware store 11) Control panel & end caps – Crookknight 12) Filter box – Scratch built (PVC sheet + paper straws) 13) Lab pipe – Scratch built (Local hardware store) Photos WITH backpack Helmet off Front Left Right Back Photos WITHOUT backpack Front Left Right Back Armor details Shoulder strap Canvas belt with pouches Ab buttons Rubber gloves & latex handguard Snaps, screws & buttons Helmet details Backpack Weapons Action pose
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    Your smile is incredible
  13. 1 point
    Looking great there, trooper!... and you also look very happy. Keeping my fingers crossed for you to pass with flying colours.
  14. 1 point
    New pictures and excuse the tail .... my wife has not seen it and unfortunately I was too late .... But overall it looks better now and I'll make new ones tomorrow and send them out for the standard aproval. Thanks bigwam for the hint. Hadn't seen that at all. Fixed immediately this morning.
  15. 1 point
    Well done Raymond [emoji106] Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
  16. 1 point
    Great picture! I keep my fingers crossed for you but I have no worries that your approval should be a walk in the park.
  17. 1 point
    Great, really better. But, Paint the inner side of the Plunger Cap Black again.
  18. 1 point
    Thank you Hausi and bigwam! You both were / are a very big help to me! The parts were painted immediately this morning. Now it looks really good. Unfortunately it is raining today and my shooting is canceled. But pictures of the revised pack are there. with and without flashlight
  19. 1 point
    Yep, thats it. Looks good. Very good.
  20. 1 point
    Hi Willi, now it looks right, good job and also kind of your dealer to send a replacement at no extra cost. The weathering on your helmet (that's a Shepperton, isn't it?) and the sniper knee plate look good too. Now get the rest of the blue parts painted and submit for Police Officer deployment.
  21. 1 point
    Moin everyone. The thing with the blue shine of the parts did not leave me alone and I contacted my dealer. After a conversation and a few pictures he agreed that he had a mistake in shipping and immediately sent me a replacement. This arrived this morning and it was repainted right away. Now that's the result. In the shade It looks now right
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    You look like you mean business! Seriously, great work.
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    Wow, absolute great! After Basic, PO!
  27. 1 point
    Waiting for basic 501st approval on my Sandtrooper Captain! I wanted to share what the backpack finally looks like with my armor.
  28. 1 point
    The weathering of your armour looks pretty good while being rather subtle but two things stand out: the helmet and the sniper knee plate. The helmet just needs another wash with some sandcoloured paint, the knee plate on the other hand looks like it isn't weathered at all. The parts on your pack look definitely too blue. Take some pics indoors. By the way, I also use abload.de to upload my pics and there's a direct link button, if you use that, the pics will directly be shown in full resolution here.
  29. 1 point
    As announced, new photos were taken and in better light conditions. Unfortunately, this only makes the RAL appear bluer ... @bigwam: thanks you too for the kinds words! I use a matt clear coat, because the paint didn't hold up so well without. The 2nd reason why I used the matt clear coat is, that I used it to fix the weathering, which is made of terrarium sand. with kind regards Willi
  30. 1 point
    Hi Willi, i like your built! Yes, there are some shiny spots on the armor. It could be the exposure of the photos or the incidence of light. If necessary, do a light wash over it again and the problem is solved. RAL 7031 is actually also the right color. Again, it can be due to the camera setting or the light. Did you use a semi-gloss clear coat? You don't actually need it on your backpack. Just take pictures in indirect light or in the shady area (not too dark). Although I think it's because of the camera setting when you look at the lush green lawn and the bright red. I think the pack is well built, great work. Regards bigwam (Thomas)
  31. 1 point
    Sounds like you have used RAL 7031? Before you repaint it, maybe take some photos in different lighting conditions. And let's see what @bigwamsays...
  32. 1 point
    Excellent work, Willi, well done. Your armor suits you well and the weathering looks very promising too, although I can't really tell because of the rather blurry nature of the pictures but I think some areas still look quite shiny. Your pack is amazing, the only flaw I can see is the colour which is too bluish,it's rather supposed to be bluish grey, I always use RAL 7031. Keep up the good work, looking forward to seeing some clearer pics of the armor.
  33. 1 point
    Hello folks, after a long time I finally have time to post my progress again. In the meantime I had not been idle and took Hausi's advice to heart and took away the shine of the armor a little. Unfortunately, the pictures didn't turn out well. I will do new this weekend. The white pauldron is from RWA as well as the sniperplate. A few weeks ago I was also lucky and was able to bid for a Stolla MP40 and a Lepuschitz magazine pouch that are the same as the Stolla. Unfortunately, one of them was brown. This was colored in several layers with black shoe polish. Unfortunately I don't have this process in pictures ... But hope you can see a bit in the photos above. Detailed pictures in better quality will follow. With kind regards Jeaz
  34. 1 point
    Good to see you're making the move to the sandy side
  35. 1 point
    Hi Willi, good to hear that you are joining the dirty side, welcome to the sand pit! Your weathering looks already very promising, just a piece of advice: the white parts in between the patches of dirt still look way too white and shiny so I would suggest giving it a wash with some watered-down Vallejo game color earth: Use a brush to apply it and almost immediately dab it off again using some paper towels (Küchenrolle). Then let it dry and repeat until you are happy with it. I've used this technique for all my kits and helmets. Have fun weathering! Cheers mate
  36. 1 point
    In addition to the CRLs, the following rules apply to Level 2 (deployed Police Officer). Moreover, it is up to the DOs to make additional decisions for or against acceptance. We also expect a PO candidate to be well informed about level 2, we suggest to read the threads here and ask questions if guidance is necessary. Helmet: is made out of fiberglass, ABS or HIPS It is white, with appropriate weathering and does not contain excessive stylization. It must match proportionally to what was seen on screen No FX Helemts are allowed! All visible screws have to be off the correct countersunk flathead type with a diameter of 7 mm and no washers are to be used. Flat green helmet lenses, made from lighting gel material, green welder´s mask face shield, acetate, or similiar product. correct Hovi-Mix Mic tips Helmet details must be hand painted. Decals, including decals, that emulate hand painting are not allowed. Three or four teeth on either side of the helmet frown may be cut out a mesh behind the frown is not allowed Backpack: Desert Backpack, styled after the ANH sandtrooper packs. they consist of two main boxes (aka Seed Trays), that are the approximate width of the backplate correct bend on frame Vacu-formed radio faceplates are not allowed Pay attention to the pleather Cover, sockets, strap holders and antenna on the radio Strict screen accuracy is required! While not every Sandtrooper in the film had a backpack, we feel that this level of commitment and overall design of the character should be attained. This also means taking no personal liberties such as LED lights, etc. For the color of the backpack parts, a greyish-blue color is recommended to meet the requirements of screen accuracy. Pauldron: Pauldron has no decals or patches and matches. The overally dimensions and look as seen on screen (not to thin) Shoulder Bells: Shoulder bells have no stickers or patches!! Shoulder Straps: no ribbed shoulder straps are present Shoulder straps shall be white elastic waistband material (4,5 - 5 cm wide) a sew-on snap be sewn to the bottom side of the elastic to attach the black elastic shoulder bell strapping must be present Chest Armor: Hardware from screen accurate bracket and strapping system must be visible in the bottom return edge of the chest plate. They may be functional or emulate the existence of the brackets. This refers to the 6 countersunk flathead screws with a distance of about 57 mm on the return edge of the chest. Armor: no FX-Armor is allowed! RotJ Armor which uses the overlap method to join the two halves of the armor is only allowed, if the applicant applies for the Special Edition Armor, otherwise for the ANH Sandtrooper, only the butt joint and cover strip method will be accepted. Hand Plates and Gloves: Hand plates are trapezoid shaped and made of latex or other flexible material. The gloves have to be black rubber chemical gloves. The plates are glued on the gloves. optional "cheese graters handplates" are also allowed Belt: Plastic plates covering the three rivets to attach the canvas belt are perfectly square Abdomen Armor: Armor side gaps are closed or nearly closed: No more than 1/2 inch (12,7 mm) gap on either side This is done by adding a shim (or shims) of a similar type and colour of material as the Abdomen and back Armor Shims fit flush, ideally they will be seamless to the Abdomen and/or Back Armor, resulting in a single seam between the two rather than extra seams where the shims are joined. Rivets on the left side of the Abdomen / Kidney Armor: A total of 6 brass split rivets with three on the Abdomen and three on the kidney. the rivets have a diameter of 8 mm and have to be painted white Rivets are equally spaced out along the lenth of the armor and abouth 10 mm from the edge. One snap on the top right hand side of the Abdomen Armor: Back of male side of snap shows on outside of Abdomen Armor Visible fasteners under lower Codpiece center area include one split rivet in the front: Fasteners need not be functional Posterior Armor (Buttplate): Visible fasteners under lower Buttpiece center includes two (or 3) male snaps in the back (snap part on the inside of the buttpiece). Fasteners need not be functional. Ammo Pouches: Black in color, made of canvas, leather or leahter-like German MP-40 style ammo pouches The standard configuration calls for a minimum of two pouches: one pouch on the left shoulder and one on the right hip (leather pouches only, either small Spanish pouch, medium Spanish pouch, large Spanish pouch or Stolla Wien, Canvas pouches on the hip-ammobelt aren´t allowed. Pouches may be replicas. a third worn on the opposite hip is allowed Option: If choosing to replicate a screen used configuration of equipment, the number of pouches may be altered Specific ammo pouches. Reproduction or original MP-40 ammo pouches are generally considered canon, made either canvas or leather. Other acceptable names/designs include Stolla Wien and the once common "Norwegian" green MP-40 pouches (shown - only aceptable for the shoulder pouch), made in leather. If using a green pouch for the shoulder, they should be dyed or painted black. No canvas pouches for the hips! Also the more commonly availible leather large French pouch is not allowed! Thigh Armor: the knee ammobelt has to be attached via two split rivets, pop rivets aren´t allowed or the little whole in the middle has to be filled with bondo. The ends of the knee ammobelt have to be of an angular shape at the top and rounded at the bottom. Please see reference pics. Note the correct width of the cover strips! Again the thigh armor has to be fully closed at the back and for ANH configurations, the two halves are joined using the butt joint and coverstrip method. Lower Leg Armor Note the correct width and screenaccurae kind of the cover stripes (as with all ANH configurations) and the closing direction. Weapons: E-11 Blaster: Folding stock (does not need to function) A real or replica ammo counter based of a Hengstler counter - shall be present. D-Ring mounted on the rear Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-40 style scope Two power cylinders on the magazine housing Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-Tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). The T-Tracks have to be straight. No Rubies Rebels-Style blasters or Hasbro blasters are allowed. No ESB/RotJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster. If a Tunisian Bapty E-11 is the weapon of choice for PO already, no D-Ring is required. T-21 Light Repeating Blaster Rifle: A ribbed length of tubing shall be installed over the front of the gun barrel. A canvas, leather or nylon sling shall be attached. There is no sight present on the top where ribbing meets base but a bit of curled black cable. The blaster has to match the overall look of the WWI Lewis Gun. RT-97C Heavy Blaster Rifle Correct style scopes silver metal hose is present on the right hand side of barrel between the trigger and "saddle barrel" DLT-19 Heavy Blaster Rifle A DLT-19 is an MG-34 with T-Tracks on the barrel, ejection port cover added and a small disk on the left side. Also the right black wires on the T-Tracks to keep them in places as used in the movie We highly encourage the use of the Bapty version of the DLT-19, as the regular versions were used on the Death Star.
  37. 1 point
    Is there a specific measurement from the center ridge to the out side edge on the shoulder bells? I can see a molding line on one side, but it is not visible on the other. Worried about trimming too much. Thanks for your guidance Asher
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