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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/21/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Hey Glen, Yes, much better photo there! Thanks! Dremel will take longer for bigger areas. It will be faster to cut larger areas first, followed by Dremel to finish and sand the areas smooth. Dremel is good for tight or curved areas. I end up with more white ABS "dust" than anything else when using my Dremel. It melts, but not as much as you think it will. Test on some scrap plastic first, and you'll see what I mean. I'm seeing a few fitting adjustments that you might want to take a look at. I've highlighted the areas in the photo below. 1. Your belt is off center. The center button should line up roughly where the middle of the ab is (green vertical line). A little rotation of that should do the trick! 2. Your thighs are rotating out. The fronts of the shins should line up with the fronts of the thighs, and currently, the thighs don't line up. This is because the thighs need to be trimmed down. Once they've been trimmed to fit correctly for length, this issue should resolve itself. (tips to do this below) 3. Your bicep looks like it's kind of jammed into your armpit, but this might be the angle of the photo. You can always trim the bicep parts from the top to allow for comfort. 4. The top backs of your shins can be trimmed for mobility and comfort. As they look now, you might end up with some fairly decent armor bites back there! The photo below shows the kind of trimming that is typically acceptable for TKs. I've trimmed the backs of all of my TK builds. Don't trim beyond the ridge of the parts. You can trim in a more square cut or a curved cut- your choice. I used a pencil to trace initial cut lines, Lexan scissors to cut the bulk of the areas out, then finished with the Dremel. Here's a pic of what mine look like: Now about thigh trimming. Here's how I do mine: Put on one thigh with your torso. Using a pencil, you're going to mark along the areas of the thighs where they hit the cod. You'll be essentially tracing the cod where it overlaps on the thigh. You will be removing more material from the inside areas of the thighs than anywhere else. Remove the thigh and trim conservatively at the pencil line. Try the thigh on again, mark where the cod hits the thigh as you move around (you may hear it or feel it as you walk), remove the thigh, trim, repeat until you notice very minimal clicking of the cod/thigh. Repeat with the other thigh. This is a tedious process, but it really works nicely to shorten the thigh and also maintain some of the original lines of the tops of the thighs. Below is a pic of my RS Props TD (converted from TK). Remember, I'm 5'4", so I had to remove quite a bit from the tops of those thighs. I even recreated the left thigh notch. That being said, I removed very, very little from the outer thighs. Bottom line: use the cod as your guide for trimming. Once the thighs are trimmed to move a little more freely around the cod/butt plate area, the thighs will have less of a tendency to rotate outwards (that cod is currently pushing on them). Hope this helps!
  2. 2 points
    After building the Pack 4 & 5, i will built another Pack. Since I'm also planning to build a new Trooper (Roadblock private), it has to be Pack # 1. 519 Trooper and Hausi have already given good guidelines. Nevertheless, I will also study the film images in order to discover something new. Little by little I have already bought parts, some I still had ... And let's go with the Shires. It's actually crazy, but I sawed up an original UP100 to build a UP90 - which was used for this pack. I've shortened it by an inch. Next I will modify the Karrimor and finish the Seed Trays ...
  3. 2 points
    Bought this raw cast from Doopydoos 5 or 6 years back and finally got around to working on it. Its been sleeping on the shelf way to long. Planning to add lights and sounds once I get the pint job finished. Here is my progress so far. It came fullly assembled/glued together so I cut off the viewfinder end at the seam. Black primer coat Painted another coat with grey and then some metallic dark iron paint for the weathering effect. (Sorry I did't document this step) The painted it white using the toothpaste method to help the paint chip off. After removing the toothpaste I am not particularly happy with my first attempt at weathering with the chip off effect so I might sand it down smoothly and repaint it white again. Once I get the chipping areas better balanced and more natural I will apply the dirt weathering. Any thoughts? Advice? Would like to get some feedback so I can make this look better.
  4. 2 points
    The plastic ammo belt should be 90mm tall and go 40mm past the end blocks. Those measurements were taken from an original ANH belt. The canvas belt is 70mm tall.
  5. 2 points
    All of our gear is wonky as hell and it's good! I think you can sand down the top and bottom edge just a tiny bit more until you're almost where the block begins. For the left and right side, have a look at screencaps: They weren't all the same, so don't worry too much about measurements.
  6. 2 points
    Hello my fellow MEPD troopers, I am writing today to discuss some opportunities to help out in the MEPD. This has certainly been a crazy year. I hope everyone is staying safe and healthy out there. We are currently working on getting some 20thanniversary merch out as soon as we can. We have hit a few obstacles this year which have slowed down this process, but we will get something out ASAP. I would like to fill a couple of command staff positions and am asking if there are volunteers who who like to assist and fill these roles for the MEPD? The first position is for another junior PR person to help with the social media posted for the detachment. This member would be on a rotation to assist in creating posts and announcements on our various social media platforms. The second open position would be for a new Merchandising Officer. This person would be responsible for creating and maintaining all of the MEPD merchandise. For this position, I would highly recommend already having some legion merch run experience. These are both positions which require some time commitments to do these duties justice. I ask that anyone interested consider this when offering to help. I look forward to working with some new folks soon!
  7. 2 points
    Greetings, Troopers! I had always intended on converting my RS Props stunt TK to a TD, but wanted to make sure I had another shiny white TK to replace it. I eventually built another RS Props TK (Hero), but was still afraid of pulling the trigger on the conversion process for my Stunt. Last year I participated in a photo shoot with smoke grenades while wearing my Stunt TK. Let's just say that smoke bombs and ABS do not get along. My armor ended up STAINED beyond belief! I tried Novus and even 220 grit sandpaper to try to remove the stains from the smoke bomb pigment, but nothing worked. That crud was in there deep. This was my sign. Time to get this kit dirty! Here are some of the pics from the photo shoot before the conversion. At least the photos turned out pretty cool. I began conversion by taking my armor apart and removing the ab button plates and sniper knee parts. I glued the new sniper plate in place and began weathering. I used oil paints in raw umber, burnt umber, and burnt sienna as my base "dirt" to begin with. Weathered shin on the left, unweathered on the right. Here's what the process looked like. I like using oil paints very much because they give you loads of time to work with them due to the slow dry time. Lots of opportunity to blend, blend, blend! Once I was done blending with a cotton rag, I took a clean rag and wiped, wiped, wiped... After going over all the armor, it looked like this: I really liked this look, but I felt that while it looked dirty, it was still too polished and shiny for what I thought a Sandtrooper should look like. I let the oil paint weathering sit for a week before moving on to the next phase: adding SAND! During that time, I jumped into building my pack. I snagged a K2 Karrimor frame off of eBay last year, complete with red kidney/back straps! Woo! I cut off the top part of the frame to begin with. I painted it black, removed the lower cross support bar, and bent the frame in the middle. Bending that frame was scary! The pack was still too tall for my liking, though. When I put the seed trays on it (using Woodman's trays), there was a large space at the bottom that I didn't like. In addition, I'm just 5'4", and the pack was still a little too tall for my height. So I removed another 5cm of length from the top ends of the frame and shifted the top crossbar down accordingly. Here's what it looked like once cut for the second time: Before and after the shortening of the frame: I used my 3D printer to make this greeblie. I added the hose clamp to the tube before hitting it with black paint. I also 3D printed out the thermal detonator plate and end caps for the mortar tube because I didn't have anything else that fit the 2" black tube! And assembled it on the seed tray with my vintage Brexton lunch box, wet wipe bottle, and rubber black plunger cap: I bought a cistern part from Gordonator a few years ago. Added some zip ties, sanded, and Bondo'd the part to make it look like it should before painting: Made some shotgun shells with 1/2" PVC pipe, some EVA foam cut to fit inside, a little tulle netting, and leftover stems from pop rivets: I am using a Crashmann Sonix radio kit for my pack. To make the "leather surround" part for the box, I used stretch pleather and EVA foam. I didn't have enough EVA foam to completely surround the entire length of the box, so I measure the entire box and made two pieces in a length to meet at a corner. Then I used basting spray to secure the foam to one long piece of pleather. The basting spray helps keep the edges stuck down before sewing. I created stitching along the edges and wrapped the pleather/foam piece around the box, using hot glue to secure it in place. Done! I figured out how to put all the parts together, and then I ended up with this: Side view: View from the top: Side view: Back view: I tackled adding sand to my armor to give it good texture and make it truly sandy! Using a mix of grout, sand (duh!), fuller's earth, and a little yellow ocher oil paint, I painted it all over the armor, wiping it off until I had just enough sand texture. Had no idea it would be such a messy process! It did not want to wash off my skin. I should have worn gloves. Ah well. The sandy texture really knocked the shine off this kit! Close up so you can see some of the sand detail. That stuff is STUCK on. I can't even scratch it off. A garrison friend suggested I add a little more dirt to my boots and lower shins, and I agreed that it needed more. Here is the result: And the lid: And before anyone wants to mention my brow height, let it be known that I like the brow where it is for now. So I took the armor out for a spin last weekend, and ended up taking pics! I sent in submission pics, and was approved by my GML in less than two days! So now I'm officially TD-10401, but I want to add PO to my rank. I'll be taking more pics this weekend, and should be submitting my application to the appropriate department soon. As always, any feedback (good or bad!) is greatly appreciated. Can't wait to be an official L2 member of the MEPD!!!
  8. 2 points
    Hey Glen, I'm on the short side at 5'4", and I've built 4 TKs (and assisted sizing down several more), so I know a little about trimming for height. I might be able to give some guidance. Your photo is showing as an itty bitty image though, even when enlarged. Any chance on sharing a larger pic? The Dremel is your friend when it comes to trimming. But for cutting off a larger amount, you might want to trim off the bulk first, then finish with the Dremel. Tin snips can behave aggressively with the ABS sometimes when you cut on a curve and can leave you with extra sanding work to do. A better alternative would be to use a curved pair of Lexan scissors. I own many pairs of Lexan scissors in both straight and curved shapes, and they do an amazing job of cutting plastic.
  9. 2 points
    Just recieved the message that I've got approved. TD 30729 is reporting for duty! Next step: PO
  10. 1 point
    1. Troop - 20.10.2020 Outpost One in Dassow (Germany)
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    Name: Ralf Eckner Legion ID: TD-62051 https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=26205 Forumname: Ralf_Eckner Garrison: German Garrison Helmet: RS Kit Pauldron: Burkbench Design [former Imperial Supply Depot] Neckseal: selfmade Gloves: Imprial Warfighters Pouches: ebay, selfmade RT-97c: 3D Print Field Pack: Frame by Karimor (from Trevor), Radio by Sandie Comms (leather and greeblies finished by me), Filter & Box by Trevor, Syphon & Seedtrays by RWA, Canteen by Imperial Warfighters Armor 360° w/ Backpack Helmet 360° w/ Details Armordetails Pauldron, Belt & Pouches. Gloves, Neckseal Backpack 360° Shoes 360° RT-97c
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    @Omaha Joe @Gotab Access granted, welcome!
  15. 1 point
    It looks,.interesting, maybe the chipping should be just in the areas where it would normally chip off first, like the areas of mayor contact with other surfaces Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk
  16. 1 point
    I just completed this 3D print that I got off a fellow trooper in the garrison. The print was very thin and very rough so a lot of sanding and re enforcing was required before they were sturdy enough to troop in. Might add a little darker wash in a few spots but I am happy with the final product and should look great on the next troop! More stuff to hang off an already weighted down trooper. Let me know what you think fellow Sandie's And here is a closeup of the front lens in the sun
  17. 1 point
    I am using that Stanley box for my stuff, it fits the complete armor with the helmet and my Bapty E-11: I love this box, it´s easy to handle, sturdy as well, you can sit or stand on it or put some other boxes on top to save some space.
  18. 1 point
    Or you mean "Stanley Boxes"? https://www.amazon.com/-/de/dp/B000Q5NJ4S/ref=sr_1_25?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&dchild=1&keywords=stanley+box&qid=1601801265&sr=8-25
  19. 1 point
    Try to use ‘Husky’ mobile tool box .. i read most of Troopers in US use that and some others brand.. forgot what the other brands are... Hope that Help.
  20. 1 point
    Some Reference Pics ...
  21. 1 point
    Hi Daniel, look here, there are five new Threads to each Pack with detailed informations: http://forum.mepd.net/index.php?/forum/4-field-backpack/
  22. 1 point
    @Cricket, great work. This is what we need, troopers helping troopers. I appreciate that you took the time to give such extensive and detailed advice. Just in case you should decide to recreate those returnedges at the top of the thighs: this gets the job done, an iron which is used for model airplanes. This will allow you to create a new Returnedge. As I am also not the tallest and trimmed down my thighs as the top, then I recreated those returnedges and it worked brilliantly, pretty easy to use too.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Mic and ear sockets installed. I didn't have the enthusiasm to install the 5 pin socket on the opposite side of the box because it would require me to completely take apart the seed tray from the pack frame. Just not up for it today. Anyhow, these are 3.5mm female headphone jacks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077XPSKQD/ I drilled holes, inserted the jacks into the holes from the inside, and secured them with the silver ring nut on the outside (included). I added some hot glue on the inside for extra stability, so these aren't going anywhere! Feet installed. The feet were secured with split rivets I had left over from my TK builds. Antenna installed. I just drilled a hole, stuck it in there, and secured it with a ton of hot glue from the inside. It's not 100% accurate to the film, but it does add a little more realism to the box, methinks! Now to make time to get photos!!!
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    Hi Christine, thanks for the input. I have attached another photo, hopefully a better quality one. I do have curved and straight snips, but if dremmel is faster without melting I would be happy. Although a little sanding would be fine to pass time. Thanks again, Glen
  27. 1 point
    Hello, let's take the toy out completely, that doesn't count. Likewise the redesigned Special Edition. In total there were only six sand troopers who exchanged some of their armor in the individual scenes. Since there are also group pictures in which all six actors stand next to each other, can you actually see that there is no gray pauldron? I think it just looks gray and is a lighting thing. In my eyes there are no gray pauldrons, only white pauldrons. Regards bigwam
  28. 1 point
    Hey Cesar reporting! It has been awhile since I posted my “Sandie on the Works” Still weathering, looking and digging for info, of how to do things “The right way” specially since I am shooting to go as Move Along Cap, and why? I guess he is a total challenge!!! Here are some of my picture progress, Please don’t mind my pet! I found him lonely, thirsty, and hungry! Now he is part of me!!!
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    Good job with your armour, I would do more dirt on the canvas, it looks real white.
  31. 1 point
    Congratulation, nice job with all. Like it much.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    Sockets, feet, and an antenna were located this week (Amazon FTW!). Planning to install them before taking pics for PO.
  34. 1 point
    Hi Glen and welcome to the MEPD. I see you are going for the Move along Captain with your chest weathering. Looks good already. I understand that you want to trim your thighs as they seem to reduce your leg movement. It's actually pretty easy, I had to do the same and have used an iron which is used for model airplanes. This will allow you to create a new Returnedge at the top of the thighs. Always feel free to ask any question in the armor section of our forum. Cheers mate
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    Hey mate, those are some great pics, the ones with the smoke as well as your pictures showing the final result of your conversion. The weathering looks subtle and realistic and amazing work on the pack, I always appreciate if people really have a go at building their own packs. Well done. I would suggest adding more details to the radio as the sockets and the feet but overall it looks like it's ready for PO submission.
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    The MP40 with toolpouch is ok for the shoulder. For the hip, no one of them for level 2 & 3. For basic ask your gmo, i don't like them for the hip. They are not screen accurate. The Pauldron looks good.
  39. 1 point
    Allright folks, here´s an update: probably because of the extensive paintjob I have given this rubber blaster, the T-tracks - which are part of the mold so it´s all one piece - became tacky and seem to "melt", so for all of you getting one of these bad boys, consider thoroughly if you want to paint it. I decided to cut them off and replace them with some black plastic tracks, so I cut them off using my trusty exacto blade... aaaand cut myself. put a band aid on it and continued: As you can see, I have decided to go for the "Move along"-layout of tracks (above the rubber bapty you can see my SWAT-level DD Bapty with the same tracks-layout) and drilled holes accordingly. I then used some black plastic T-tracks from Super6 Props, cut them to shape and used my heatgun to bend them. Here´s what the original screen-used prop looks like: And here is what my finished blaster looks like (the Sheartech blaster is the one at the bottom, DD at the top) And finally a pic showing it with some other project I´m working on atm. Oh yeah, and I can definitely say that I prefer working on Sandtrooper lids...
  40. 1 point
    No, I got the two pouches with my commission but I only use the one with the tool pouch for the shoulder. I‘ve got two small ones for the hipps. But the MP40 pouches are ok I would say. I added snaps to attach it to the inside of the armor. Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    That's great advice, and I'm building a TM kit as well!
  43. 1 point
    The master and his apprentice, that’s the way it has to be! To TM you listen, couldn’t be in better hands! Thanks Paul for visiting the MEPD regularly to help by spreading your knowledge! Much appreciated!
  44. 1 point
    Congratulations Kev and welcome to the PO crew
  45. 1 point
    I do have a few stupidly simple questions that I cant really find answers for. 1. How tight fitting do I want the waist armor?, Not too tight of course and preferrably no gap between the ab and backplate 2. How tight for the arms and legs? Should they easily fall off my arms or fit snug? There are official sizes for the strips but depending on how big your arms are. But 15-18mm is preferred. 3. Do I need a balaclava like with my AT-AT driver? No, unless you like that warm and snug feeling 4. I have a diagram of a TK that specifies the width of the leg strips as 20mm front and back for the thighs, and 20mm front and 25mm back for calves. Is 25mm for the rear calves optional for people with bigger calves? Or is 20mm is preferable for the rear calves? Preferrably as small as possible,but the guys in a new hope were a lot smaller that we are these days. So when needed bigger 25mm is the maximum I would do. 5. Where in the world do I find the proper Tandy snaps? All I can find are snaps that are embossed with Tandy. https://www.tandyleather.com/en/category/snaps 6. Weathering products? I don't want to use the hairspray method I want something permanent and earthy. Well that's something really personal, some use real dirt, some a mixture of oil and dirt and some drag it behind their car for a couple of miles. SBut seriously I would go for terra colours and experiment with them and please, but please don't use acrylics...and the hairspray is used for fixation, I have applied several layers and it works like a dream.
  46. 1 point
    No, you need to have the screws present (what shows on the outside), but you can use whatever internal strapping method you want that's not seen.
  47. 1 point
    The new weathering looks great. Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
  48. 1 point
    New Pauldron pre-weathering As I move towards a specified TD (Cantina Captain) I have changed my pauldron from black to orange, and tweaked my weathering slightly. Thanks for looking.
  49. 1 point
    Heres my left handplate....notice the heavier weathering
  50. 1 point
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